tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73264291056667728312024-03-15T18:10:29.992-07:00The Fashionable PastHistorical costuming from the 18th through 20th centuries, with a few fantasy and earlier pieces. Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.comBlogger215125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-56795685214994066582023-12-27T18:47:00.000-08:002023-12-27T22:33:10.003-08:002023--I made things!<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/53425432403/in/album-72177720313659388/" title="DSC_0642~3"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53425432403_31ae3c73b3.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_0642~3"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/53424355217/in/album-72177720313659388/" title="DSC_0522~2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53424355217_c9c218d7f8.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_0522~2"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/53425705215/in/album-72177720313659388/" title="DSC_0475"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53425705215_1d4ecb9f70.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_0475"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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Over the past few years, I've learned that no matter how much I love making things, I just can't do it without an end purpose. After everything that happened and didn't happen, going back to events gave me something I had lost. It was perfect that my first event back was the Jane Austen Evening, which had been my last event. There was such a welcoming symmetry to it.
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The return of events has meant so much. Public events have fallen out of fashion with many costumers in favor of private gatherings, but I've always loved public events and still do--the variety and creativity is just amazing. And while every event has its barriers, it's a very good thing that there are events where you buy a ticket and can go instead of an event where you need to know the right people or have the right Instagram aesthetic to get an invitation. Even when I went to private events in what feels like another lifetime now, I recognized what a unique privilege it was, and was thankful that there were costuming events you could do without that privilege. While of course, recognizing and being thankful that I had that particular privilege to attend public events too!
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So, the costumes! In 2023 I made a handknit bathing suit from the 1920s, a copy of a Lanvin robe de style, a Mucha inspired dress, a sweater from a 1919 pattern and a hat and skirt to go with it, a sequined cape to go with my 1930s Melisandre dress, and a cotton print Regency dress. (The cape picture is by <a href="https://www.markedwardsphotos.com/about">Mark Edwards,</a> who did an amazing job as the Costume College photographer.)
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In addition to what I made, I wore a few things I made over the last few years--a Cersei dress, knitted 1921 dress, plaid 1910s dress, my 1920s Cersei inspired robe de style, my pink handmaiden dress, and a 1920s Halloween cat dress--that I hadn't worn before or only took a few pictures of.
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I'm generally not a year in review, mark anniversary type, but this year felt worthy of it, I think.
Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-15301777303501333022023-06-23T15:14:00.005-07:002023-06-28T13:09:39.244-07:00What I Wore to Costume Con 39!<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52995853417/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="Cersei Red and Gold"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52995853417_04c221916c.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Cersei Red and Gold"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52996597729/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="Cersei Red and Gold"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52996597729_297b36101e.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Cersei Red and Gold"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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Costume Con 39 took place in San Jose, California in April 2023, after a two year delay. Despite not costuming a lot during the pandemic and the usual time sneaking up before an event, I think I managed to pull together a good wardrobe for the con! New, somewhat new, new accessories, and rewearing things worked well. <br><br>
On Friday, I wore the Cersei dress from season 1 of Game of Thones that I started for WonderCon 2020. I meant to do the version with the weird hairstye and crown, and would still like to, but ended up doing the more relaxed version of the dress. I started the dress in January 2020 and finished it in October 2022. It's not an exact reproduction, but rather what I thought I'd make if I were given the concept art. I had a lot of fun with it--especially embroidering the sleeves!
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52995853167/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="Handmaiden"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52995853167_ddd5020122.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Handmaiden"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52996597974/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="Handmaiden"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52996597974_d1207c7973.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Handmaiden"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52996821515/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="Handmaiden"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52996821515_7c97a832b1.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Handmaiden"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>On Friday night, I wore my Game of Thones handmaiden dress. <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2018/08/making-game-of-thrones-kings.html">Full details here!</a> I love this style and have also made an unblogged one in black and silver. </center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52995852737/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="1921 Knit Dress"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52995852737_1d87da888b.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="1921 Knit Dress"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52996921548/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="1921 Knit Dress"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52996921548_d121d9fc11.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="1921 Knit Dress"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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On Saturday, I wore a dress I knit from a 1921 pattern in the <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/261621227/bear-brand-blue-book-35-c1921-vintage?ref=yr_purchases">Bear Brand Blue Book #35.</a> I followed the pattern exactly using Jaggerspun Maine Line 2/8 yarn and US size 8/5mm needles. <a href="http://koshka-the-cat-antiques.blogspot.com/2016/08/1920s-yarn-samples-from-peace-dale-yarns.html">I have a sample of Peace Dale 1920s yarns, and their Shetland Floss, which the pattern calls for and was a description used by many brands in the 1920s, is a 2 ply fingering weight.</a> It's remarkably similar to the Maine Line yarn (as is Knit Picks Pallette and Jamieson and Smith 2 ply jumper weight, which I've used for other 20s and 30s sweaters). The knitting is quite loose, but it does match the gauge called for and the look of the dress in the pattern book.
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<center><iframe width="320" height="560" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IziUeZAIuFc" title="1921 Knit Dress, Bouncing" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="320" height="560" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uW6VSxMLeqw" title="1921 Knit Dress" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe></center>
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<center>And the dress in motion! It's wonderfully bouncy</center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52996922093/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="20s Cersei"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52996922093_bea75d669a.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="20s Cersei"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52995852692/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="20s Cersei"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52995852692_28574d0f62.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="20s Cersei"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52996454371/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="20s Cersei"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52996454371_8d410dccf3.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="20s Cersei"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
<br><br>For dinner on Saturday night, we went to the Orchestria Palm Court, which is a late 1910s/early 1920s themed restaurant. I wore the 1920s robe de style based on Cersei's season 7 dragon pit dress. It's based on period examples, but the center is actually screen accurate fabric from the show. The back is my favorite part--beads to imitate the spine on her coat.
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52996455031/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="1921 Bathing Suit"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52996455031_c93f153563.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="1921 Bathing Suit"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52995852752/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="1921 Bathing Suit"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52995852752_7d196939a2.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="1921 Bathing Suit"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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On Sunday, I wore my 1921 knit bathing suit from <a href="https://thevintagetraveler.wordpress.com/2016/06/03/lady-fair-yarn-book-no-3-1921/">The Lady Fair Yarn Book and published on the Vintage Traveler blog.</a> I've since worn this to the beach and have much better pictures than me squinting at the pool! The pattern as written is interesting--with instructions like "for right side of front, knit to correspond to right side of back." I knit the right side of the front to match the left! I think someone made the suit and wrote down what they did without proofreading it. I made a few changes, but I don't think anything someone knitting in the 20s wouldn't have done, such as decreasing the waist so it was smaller than the bust. It's made of Jaggerspun Maine Line 3/8 yarn on US size 5/3.5mm needles. I would like to do a full blog post on this--including my revised pattern.
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52996597999/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="30s Melisandre"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52996597999_d5b4e17734.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="30s Melisandre"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52996454996/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="30s Melisandre"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52996454996_533d1636f2.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="30s Melisandre"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52996598064/in/album-72177720309277180/" title="30s Melisandre"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52996598064_07de2c15fa.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="30s Melisandre"/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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For the historical masquerade, I wore the 1930s Melisandre dress I wore to the Costume College gala in 2019. I made a matching cape from a <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/386202644/vintage-sewing-pattern-1930s-30s-cape?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=1930s+cape+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&edd=1&local_signal_search=1&organic_search_click=1">vintage pattern</a>. The dress and cape are silk satin and about 32,000 sequins.
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<center><iframe width="320" height="560" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yznOjx3ssIw" title="1930s Melisandre" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe></center>
<center> And the dress in motion to capture the sparkle!</center>
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So, that's Costume Con, wardrobe wise, at least! As Evil Ted, one of the guests said during his panel, he expected that he'd get so much done during the pandemic, but just didn't, because of the loss of community. I went through so many false starts and false hopes about making things, and am so thankful that I discovered how much I love 1920s knitting, but I did feel the loss of wanting to make things, and seeing the people that made making things worth it. Costume Con was a wonderful return to that community. It was so amazing to see so many friends that I hadn't seen since 2018 or 2019. Even though many of us have grown closer online, it's just not the same as being together.
Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-31878355975531859032023-02-05T10:06:00.001-08:002023-02-05T10:06:05.111-08:00A Black and Red Print Dress for the Huntingtion <center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52669690318/in/album-72177720305786393/" title="DSC_0521-01"><img alt="DSC_0521-01" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669690318_171fb45213_z.jpg" width="427" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Finally, another event! My last (though you couldn't necessarily tell from my blog...) was the 2020 Jane Austen Evening in Pasadena, with our traditional trip to the Huntington Gardens and Library before the dance. Clearly, I needed a new dress! I had started embroidering a dress in 2021, but it's been set aside since 2021. Even though my favorite part of costuming has always been making costumes, I'm also the type of person who needs a reason to make a dress. Taking pictures isn't enough. I've knit (mostly c 1920s sweaters), restarted knitting projects, had many false starts, two dresses for Halloween (one for work, and the other (unusually) just for pictures), and made a few small things (everything but the skirt to go with my 1919 sweater), but haven't had a true deadline since 2020. I wanted to make two dresses for the Jane Austen Evening, but had procrastinated on the 1922 sweater that I was working on and wanted to finish in 2022. I finished that minutes before midnight on New Year's Eve, but it did delay the start of this dress! I still would have had time for two, but wanted to enjoy making it. I decided that I'd rather have a new dress for the Huntington than the dance, so wore my black embroidered dress from 2018 in the evening. I'm very happy I wore an old dress since I just watched the ball instead of danced. I usually try to dance all the easy dances, but this year was different.
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52669192236/in/album-72177720305786393/" title="DSC_0595-01"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669192236_7b8305818f.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_0595-01"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52669627070/in/album-72177720305786393/" title="DSC_0584-01"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669627070_941f8f6df4.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_0584-01"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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Onto the dress! It's made of <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1165733090/india-floral-hand-block-print-cotton">block print cotton</a> from The Block Prints on Etsy. My chemissette is <a href="https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/collections/linen-white-naturals-neutrals/products/7274-white-linen-voile?variant=40009160228951">ramie voile</a> from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com">Burnley and Trowbridge.</a> It's lined in linen and sewn by hand. This may be the first dress I've made that I didn't take pictures of while I made it, but the costruction is similar to my <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2017/12/regency-leia-bodice-and-pleated-open.html">Regency Leia dress</a>. Since this dress has a curved neckline and that dress has a square neckline, I sewed the shoulder strap on after the front piece. The linen flaps pin in front and the dress closes with drawstrings.
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52669626745/in/album-72177720305786393/" title="DSC_0536-01"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52669626745_422628e667.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_0536-01"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52668692512/in/album-72177720305786393/" title="DSC_0534-01"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52668692512_6418606ec4.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_0534-01"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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The Huntington is beautiful, and I'm so happy we had more time to explore than usual. The bridge in the Japanese gardens was a lovely backdrop! My shawl is silk gauze edged with rayon ribbon that I dyed--both from <a href="http://www.dharmatrading.com">Dharma Trading.</a>
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Another bridge--in the Chinese gardens--made another lovely backdrop. Not everything was blooming in January, but some of the trees had the prettiest pink flowers. My skirt has no shaping--it's just straight panels. I usually make gored skirts for this style, but lost track of time. Suddenly, the event was in a few days. I really do like the shape of it though, and think it worked well with the slightly fussy bodice!
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The sleeeves on the dress are inspired by my fashion plate, which has a petal sleeve over a white puffed sleeve. After working on the sleeve for three days, I switched and made straight sleeves inspired by the puffed sleeves. They looked right, but I don't like puffed sleeves very much. The sleeve is two layers. The cotton voile has a layer of pleating applied under the slit. The black fabric was cut with a scallop and then I cut it from the scallop to the top of the sleeve and hemmed it with a narrow hem. The penguin is Arthur. His Instagram is @penguins_wear_clothes and this was his first vacation.
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The fashion plate I used as inspiration. Despite not liking puffed sleeves, they (and the ruffle) drew me to the dress. When I switched to straight sleeves, I was tried to make it so it was still obvious that it was inspired by this sleeve.
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52671056615/in/album-72157695966189715/" title="PXL_20230129_035926356"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671056615_5aafb1fb94.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="PXL_20230129_035926356"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52671056535/in/album-72157695966189715/" title="PXL_20230129_035901979-01"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52671056535_c4c8f34260.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="PXL_20230129_035901979-01"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/52670117312/in/album-72157695966189715/" title="2023-02-05_09-25-36"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52670117312_41a31b9052.jpg" width="335" height="500" alt="2023-02-05_09-25-36"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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My dress for the ball--including one taken by my friend @journeyofaphotog in better light in 2018! This dress is pleated over a linen base and is basically made the same way as my <a href="https://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2019/08/a-late-1790s-dress-with-diamond-back.html">diamond back 1790s dress.</a>Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-34611913097821392422021-02-07T12:31:00.004-08:002021-02-07T12:34:35.803-08:00A 1920s "Two Day" Sweater...<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50909258433/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50909258433_a6b26044c8.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="20s Sweater 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><p>
<br />I made this sweater almost by accident. I bought the <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/261621227/bear-brand-blue-book-35-c1921-vintage?ref=hp_rv-1&pro=1" target="_blank">c. 1921 <i>Bear Brand Blue Book</i> on Etsy</a> and found a few patterns in it I wanted to make. They called for Shetland Floss, so naturally I wanted to find out more about it. I do have a sample of it from Peace Dale Yarns, which I wrote about <a href="http://koshka-the-cat-antiques.blogspot.com/2016/08/1920s-yarn-samples-from-peace-dale-yarns.html" target="_blank">here,</a> but was interested to see if I could find any from Bear Brand, details about the weight, or how much yardage was on a skein. Instead, I came across The Diane Sweater in an ad for Fleisher's Yarn in the <a href="a href=https://www.google.com/books/edition/Ladies_Home_Journal/zYX5LaziesYC?hl=en&gbpv=0" target="_blank">April 1921 <i>Ladies' Home Journal</i></a> that claimed it only took a day and a half to make. While I knew that it would take longer--it took about a month--it gave me an actual reason to make something and consistently work on it--something I haven't been able to do since all events were cancelled--as they should've been--this year. </p><p>I took these pictures by myself with a tripod, and so look forward to when we can get together again. <br /></p><p>My version of the pattern can be found <a href="https://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2021/02/making-1920s-two-day-sweater.html" target="_blank">here.</a> I've rewritten it and fixed a few of the errors in the original pattern. <br /><a href="https://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2021/02/making-1920s-two-day-sweater.html" target="_blank"></a></p><a name='more'></a>
<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50910082037/in/album-72157718116626523/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Ladies-Home-Journal-April 1921"><img alt="Ladies-Home-Journal-April 1921" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50910082037_1b12a4ce95.jpg" width="374" /></a></div><center><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><p>
<br /><br />This sweater has something in common with the sweaters and dresses in the <i>Bear Brand Blue Book</i>--negative ease. The dress I'm currently working on has a finished measurement of about 29 inches, yet is sized for a 34-36 inch bust. This sweater doesn't give gauge, but assuming that it has the same gauge as the similar patterns in the book, has a finished bust width of about 26 1/2 inches. I found this interesting, and it made me want to see just what was going on. Garter stitch is stretchy, but that's a lot of negative ease!</p><p>Clearly though, it does work! And I think would work better with a fingering weight yarn that's closer to Shetland Floss. <br /></p><p>I happened to have a cone of JaggerSpun Maine Line 3/8--a sport weight yarn that gives a gauge of 5 stitches an inch--that I was using for a shawl that I probably wasn't going to finish, so decided to use it for the sweater. The 3/8 yarn is heavier than the sample of Shetland Floss that I have, but it gave the same gauge. I think this is why there are differences between my sweater and the sweater in the ad. </p><p>I'm using JaggerSpun Maine Line 2/8 for the dress I'm knitting now. It's a fingering weight yarn, and when knit on size 8 needles, gives a gauge of 5 stitches an inch. The pattern calls for size 5 needles, but modern size five 5 were too small. Even if I adjusted it, the fabric would be too thick for the dress. It took a few tries to get the gauge for the dress right, but finally worked on size 8 needles, which, coincidentally--are 5 mm needles.</p><p>I think we tend to think of knitted fabric in one way, a fairly dense fabric. This wasn't always true--in the past you'll often see fine yarns on larger needles. I would actually like to make another one of these sweaters in fingering weight yarn on size 8 needles to see what happens! <br /></p><p>I found a <a href="https://slumberland.org/wp/2007/11/13/pattern-diane-sweater-from-1921/" target="_blank">page with a version of the pattern as well</a>--which although I didn't use, is still good to share! <br /></p><p><br />
</p><center><a href="https://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2021/02/making-1920s-two-day-sweater.html"></a><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50909952441/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 5"><img alt="20s Sweater 5" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50909952441_1cab96a5d0.jpg" width="305" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50909258208/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 6"><img alt="20s Sweater 6" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50909258208_67ab8293c0.jpg" width="339" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><p>
<br /><br />Still, I'm very happy with this sweater! It paired nicely with<a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2014/07/a-1920s-hemstitched-tennis-dress.html" target="_blank"> my 1920s hemstitched tennis dress</a>, which was a pleasant surprise--I had an accidental full costume! All I needed was a hat, which I made from view 1 of<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/594932968/vintage-sewing-pattern-1910s-1920s?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=1920s+beret+pattern&ref=sr_gallery-2-19&organic_search_click=1" target="_blank"> Mrs. DePew's 1920s Tam O'Shanters and Hats pattern</a>. It's unlined purple taffeta. The only adjustment was I needed to take about an inch in from the band. <br /></p><p><br /><br />
</p><center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50910082947/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 7"><img alt="20s Sweater 7" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50910082947_74e8abf5b7.jpg" width="323" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50910082852/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 8"><img alt="20s Sweater 8" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50910082852_e42a7cfff9.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50909952116/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 9"><img alt="20s Sweater 9" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50909952116_dae1561901.jpg" width="323" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><p>
<br />In addition to the bust measurement having negative ease, the sleeves do too. They're 70 stitches, or 14 inches long. When I tried the sweater on (very carefully because it was pinned!), they were barely past my elbow. The advertisement shows wrist length sleeves. I thought this was strange, but the sleeves appearing to be too short was true of the patterns in the <i>Bear Brand Blue Book, </i>so I didn't try to change it. I thought that maybe the tightness of the cuffs pulled the sleeves to the length they were supposed to be. The cuffs are only about three inches long, but are fairly tight---and would be tighter if I followed the pattern exactly. It doesn't mention increasing back to the original size after the decorative dropped stitches and was just too tight to make it over my hand easily. </p><p>The cuffs did work as expected and lengthened the sleeves--just not all the way to my wrist. I could pull the sleeves to my wrist--the cuffs just weren't tight enough to keep them there. I think though, that if you used the original weight yarn, you'd be able to keep the tighter cuffs in the pattern, and the sleeves would go to your wrists. Fingering weight on size 8 needles is much stretchier than sport weight on size 6 needles! <br /><br />
</p><center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50910082667/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 10"><img alt="20s Sweater 10" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50910082667_bd358eb2d8.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50909952001/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 11"><img alt="20s Sweater 11" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50909952001_8110dab5fb.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
<br /><br />I took pictures at a school built in 1936. It has a gorgeous courtyard, which I think was supposed to be locked when I visited last March! Still, the corridors outside the school were quite pretty, and it was quiet for me and my tripod on a Sunday afternoon. The <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2012/05/story-of-parasol.html?m=0" target="_blank">parasol</a> is one I recovered in 2012. <br /><br />
<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50909951936/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 12"><img alt="20s Sweater 12" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50909951936_73aa1648b7.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50910082477/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 13"><img alt="20s Sweater 13" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50910082477_4d8cd53f53.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50910082407/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 14"><img alt="20s Sweater 14" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50910082407_14e1b3af4c.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
<br /><br />A few more views. I found the way the tie looked best was to just tie it once. The texture of the wool keeps it in place. I did have to tighten it once or twice, but it looked better than a knot, so I thought that was an acceptable choice!<br /><br />
<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50909257593/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 15"><img alt="20s Sweater 15" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50909257593_dc39ec0c0e.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50910082167/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 16"><img alt="20s Sweater 16" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50910082167_c589873ef4.jpg" width="332" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><p>
<br /><br />In front of the doors at the side of the school's original gymnasium. The front entrance is very pretty with a triple archway--and fenced off! <br /></p><p><br /><br />
</p><center>
<iframe allow="autoplay; fullscreen; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="640" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/509502013" width="360"></iframe></center>Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-90817998249272166652021-02-07T12:31:00.002-08:002021-02-07T12:32:32.773-08:00Making the 1920s "Two Day" Sweater<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50910083222/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 2"><img alt="20s Sweater 2" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50910083222_7251878631.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50910083197/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 3"><img alt="20s Sweater 3" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50910083197_808593a477.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50909258323/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater 4"><img alt="20s Sweater 4" height="500" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50909258323_617e467f01.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><p>
<br /><br />An ad for a sweater using Fleisher Yarns, The Diane Sweater was published in The Ladies’ Home Journal in April 1921.
The sweater calls for Shetland Floss, which is about a modern fingering weight. Based on similar patterns, the gauge is five stitches an inch--this isn’t what you expect from fingering weight, but I achieved it with size 8 needles when I was figuring out another pattern. I made my sweater with sport weight yarn on size 6 needles, which also gives 5 stitches an inch. The fit of the sweater counts on the stretchiness of the finished sweater--no size is given.
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The sweater is knit in one T shaped piece, starting at the back with added cuffs, collar, and belt. It’s folded at the shoulder, the side seams are sewn, and the belt is sewn to the bottom front edge and tied in back. My notes and changes to the pattern are in brackets. [ ]
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This post is just about construction--more pictures and details can be found <a href="https://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2021/02/a-1920s-two-day-sweater.html" target="_blank"> on this post.</a> I've included a copy of the pattern without pictures at the end of this post, and a PDF is available <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ab4JOrRCN5zM4T_ATAOu2hRnX_BpGv3-/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">here.</a></p><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a>
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<p></p><center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50910082037/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="Ladies-Home-Journal-April 1921"><img alt="Ladies-Home-Journal-April 1921" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50910082037_1b12a4ce95_z.jpg" width="478" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50916383362/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="Shetland Floss v Sport Weight"><img alt="Shetland Floss v Sport Weight" height="640" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50916383362_4d2193a542_z.jpg" width="360" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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The pattern be can found on <a href="https://www.google.com/books/edition/Ladies_Home_Journal/zYX5LaziesYC?hl=en&gbpv=0" target="_blank">page 112 of the April 1921 The Ladies' Home Journal on Google Books.</a> I own some samples of Peace Dale Yarn from the 1920s, including Shetland Floss and wrote about them <a href="http://koshka-the-cat-antiques.blogspot.com/2016/08/1920s-yarn-samples-from-peace-dale-yarns.html" target="_blank">here.</a> This picture compares the JaggerSpun Maine Line 3/8 that I used for this sweater with the Shetland Floss.
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<b> Start</b>
<br /><br />
Cast on 60 stitches
<br /><br />
Knit in garter stitch for one inch.
<br /><br />
Knit in stockinette stitch for four inches.
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50913278776/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater Progress 1"><img alt="20s Sweater Progress 1" height="320" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913278776_91b76f7b42_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<br /><br />
Drop every third stitch on the next row. Darn the last row of garter stitch to stop the dropped stitch from going to the cast on row. (40 stitches)
<br /><br />
Increase every other stitch on the next row. [Knit two stitches, increase by picking up the dropped stitch and knitting through the back of the loop] 60 stitches.
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50913409237/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater Progress 2"><img alt="20s Sweater Progress 2" height="320" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913409237_48859e7723_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
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Continue in garter stitch until the sweater measures 8 inches from the beginning of the dropped stitch section. [The pattern says to knit 8 inches--it would be too long if you measured this from the end of the dropped stitch section.]
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<b>Begin sleeves</b>
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Cast on ten stitches at the end of each row 14 times [the pattern says to do this six times, but the math for casting off the neckline doesn’t work] (200 stitches--the 60 for the back and 70 for each sleeve)
<br /><br /><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50913278596/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater Progress 3"><img alt="20s Sweater Progress 3" height="320" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913278596_6d1975babd_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<br /><br />
Knit 36 rows
<br /><br />
Knit 91 stitches, place on spare needle or holder, cast off 18 stitches, knit 91 stitches
<br /><br />
Knit 6 rows on last 91 stitches.
<br /><br />
Next row, cast on 15 stitches at neck edge (106 stitches)
<br /><br />
Knit 42 rows
<br /><br />
Cast off ten stitches at the wrist edge of the next seven rows. (36 stitches)
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50912588923/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater Progress 4"><img alt="20s Sweater Progress 4" height="320" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912588923_030d175168_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<br /><br />
Knit until front measures 1 inch shorter than the garter stitch section on the back. Place stitches on spare needle or holder. [The pattern calls for this section to be seven inches long. This would’ve made the front and back not match, so I compared measurements instead.]
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Repeat for the other side.
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50913278421/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater Progress 5"><img alt="20s Sweater Progress 5" height="320" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913278421_75a7803b9b_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<br /><br />
Join fronts, and knit for one inch, or until garter stitch section of the front matches the garter stitch section of the back. (72 stitches)
<br /><br />
Knit in stockinette for four inches. Drop every third stitch on the next row. Darn the last row of garter stitch to stop the dropped stitches.
<br /><br />
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50913408822/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater Progress 6"><img alt="20s Sweater Progress 6" height="320" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913408822_8443d02937_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script>
<br /><br />
[Increase back to 72 stitches by picking up the dropped stitches and knitting through the back of the loop at this point and knit one row--the pattern doesn’t call for this, but it gives an easy foundation to sew the belt to.]
<br /><br />
Bind off.
<br /><br />
<b>Cuffs </b>
<br /><br />
Pickup 30 stitches at the wrist edge.
<br /><br />
Stockinette stitch for 1 ½ inches.
<br /><br />
Drop every third stitch on the next row.
<br /><br />
[Increase back to 30 stitches by picking up dropped stitches and knitting through the back of the loop. The pattern doesn’t call for this, but I found the cuffs to be too tight if you didn’t increase. It may work without increases with the looser, stretchier fabric you get from fingering weight and size 8 needles]
<br /><br />
Knit in garter stitch for one inch.
<br /><br />
Bind off loosely.
<br /><br />
<b>Collar</b>
<br /><br />
Pick up stitches around the neck edge. [The pattern doesn’t list a number--just space them so they fit easily.]
<br /><br />
Knit in garter stitch for two inches.
<br /><br />
Knit in stockinette for two inches.
<br /><br />
Next row, drop every third stitch. Darn last row of garter stitch to stop dropped stitches.
<br /><br />
[Increase back to original number of stitches by picking up the dropped stitches and knitting through the back of the loop. Though the pattern doesn’t call for this, it makes the collar sit better.]
<br /><br />
Knit in garter stitch for one inch.
<br /><br />
Bind off loosely.
<b> <br /><br />
Belt</b>
<br /><br />
Knit in garter stitch for 54 inches.
<br /><br />
<b>To Make</b>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50912588653/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater Progress 7"><img alt="20s Sweater Progress 7" height="320" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912588653_336e074631_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50913408647/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater Progress 8"><img alt="20s Sweater Progress 8" height="240" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913408647_c72d277001_n.jpg" width="320" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50912588498/in/album-72157718116626523/" title="20s Sweater Progress 9"><img alt="20s Sweater Progress 9" height="320" src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912588498_3cd2fe4f25_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Fold the sweater in half at the shoulder and sew sleeve and side seams. The back will be about an inch longer than the front because it has one inch of garter stitches below the dropped stitches. Sew the belt to the bottom front edge and the edge of the back that extends past the front.
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<b> Now the same thing, without pictures!</b>
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<b> Start</b>
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Cast on 60 stitches
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Knit in garter stitch for one inch.
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Knit in stockinette stitch for four inches.
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Drop every third stitch on the next row. Darn the last row of garter stitch to stop the dropped stitch from going to the cast on row. (40 stitches)
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Increase every other stitch on the next row. [Knit two stitches, increase by picking up the dropped stitch and knitting through the back of the loop] 60 stitches.
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Continue in garter stitch until the sweater measures 8 inches from the beginning of the dropped stitch section. [The pattern says to knit 8 inches--it would be too long if you measured this from the end of the dropped stitch section.]
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<b>Begin sleeves</b>
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Cast on ten stitches at the end of each row 14 times [the pattern says to do this six times, but the math for casting off the neckline doesn’t work] (200 stitches--the 60 for the back and 70 for each sleeve)
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Knit 36 rows
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Knit 91 stitches, place on spare needle or holder, cast off 18 stitches, knit 91 stitches
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Knit 6 rows on last 91 stitches.
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Next row, cast on 15 stitches at neck edge (106 stitches)
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Knit 42 rows
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Cast off ten stitches at the wrist edge of the next seven rows. (36 stitches)
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Knit until front measures 1 inch shorter than the garter stitch section on the back. Place stitches on spare needle or holder. [The pattern calls for this section to be seven inches long. This would’ve made the front and back not match, so I compared measurements instead.]
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Repeat for the other side.
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Join fronts, and knit for one inch, or until garter stitch section of the front matches the garter stitch section of the back. (72 stitches)
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Knit in stockinette for four inches. Drop every third stitch on the next row. Darn the last row of garter stitch to stop the dropped stitches.
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[Increase back to 72 stitches by picking up the dropped stitches and knitting through the back of the loop at this point and knit one row--the pattern doesn’t call for this, but it gives an easy foundation to sew the belt to.]
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Bind off.
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<b>Cuffs </b>
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Pickup 30 stitches at the wrist edge.
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Stockinette stitch for 1 ½ inches.
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Drop every third stitch on the next row.
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[Increase back to 30 stitches by picking up dropped stitches and knitting through the back of the loop. The pattern doesn’t call for this, but I found the cuffs to be too tight if you didn’t increase. It may work without increases with the looser, stretchier fabric you get from fingering weight and size 8 needles]
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Knit in garter stitch for one inch.
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Bind off loosely.
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<b>Collar</b>
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Pick up stitches around the neck edge. [The pattern doesn’t list a number--just space them so they fit easily.]
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Knit in garter stitch for two inches.
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Knit in stockinette for two inches.
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Next row, drop every third stitch. Darn last row of garter stitch to stop dropped stitches.
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[Increase back to original number of stitches by picking up the dropped stitches and knitting through the back of the loop. Though the pattern doesn’t call for this, it makes the collar sit better.]
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Knit in garter stitch for one inch.
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Bind off loosely.
<b> <br /><br />
Belt</b>
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Knit in garter stitch for 54 inches.
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<b>To Make</b>
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Fold the sweater in half at the shoulder and sew sleeve and side seams. The back will be about an inch longer than the front because it has one inch of garter stitches below the dropped stitches. Sew the belt to the bottom front edge and the edge of the back that extends past the front.
<p></p>Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-44456186363053861092020-11-18T17:42:00.001-08:002021-02-04T20:29:13.584-08:00Tintype Photography Revisited<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50617809373/in/dateposted-public/" title="nonedited-47"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50617809373_b96d5f0892.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="nonedited-47"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50618543971/in/dateposted-public/" title="VPS Tintype 2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50618543971_9f3ba5034d.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="VPS Tintype 2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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One of the limits you think of with tintype photography is going to the studio. Except, that doesn't have to be--<a href="https://www.victorianphotostudio.com/default.html">the Victorian Photo Studio</a> can take a tintype of a digital photo. All the things I love about tintypes are evident--the color shifts, the changes in emphasis, the different expressions--and are so obvious because they're copies of photos, not just the closest you can get with a camera while taking a tintype, <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2017/11/tintype-photography-or-photographic.html">which a group of friends and I did during our trip in 2017. </a>
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Because of the different format, I decided to be creative with my choice of photos. The 1930s Melisandre dress I wore to the 2019 Costume College gala was an obvious choice. It's red silk satin with sequined flames embroidered around the hem, and we were lucky to take pictures at the fire fountain in the outside courtyard at night. Definitely perfect for the dress--and the tintype! I love how the sequins stand out, the flames become suggestions, and the general moodiness of it all.
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50522069942/in/album-72157716586091166/" title="DSC_4200a"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50522069942_608c4716e8.jpg" width="387" height="500" alt="DSC_4200a"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50521168078/in/album-72157716586091166/" title="VPS Tintype 5"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50521168078_07774bd168.jpg" width="380" height="500" alt="VPS Tintype 5"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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There were so many textures in the pictures I took of my silver and black Game of Thrones handmaiden dress that I wanted to see those in a tintype as well. The dress is black and silver silk taffeta with stenciled lions with beaded and embroidered swirls. The belt is made of Worbla and silver leaf, and I'm wearing cut steel combs in my hair. The picture was taken in late afternoon in mid October, and I like how the light worked to highlight the tintype. The way the tintype picked up my hem is especially interesting--the dust it gathered from being worn to faire is so clear.
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50521893746/in/album-72157716586091166/" title="DSC_4737"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50521893746_95e6dfc30a.jpg" width="334" height="500" alt="DSC_4737"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50521167948/in/album-72157716586091166/" title="VPS Tintype 6"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50521167948_83be9bb51a.jpg" width="366" height="500" alt="VPS Tintype 6"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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My embroidered 1830s dress is earlier than tintype photography, but the contrast of the wool tambour embroidery and the background-the Huntington Library in Pasadena--seemed ideal for a tintype anyway. It's so interesting what the technique picks up--my expression is so different. Friends and I always look more serious in the studio tintypes we've done than the modern photographs taken at the same time, but here it's obvious that at least part of that is what the camera decides to pick up and focus on.
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50522070112/in/album-72157716586091166/" title="DSC_3899"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50522070112_b3113cd021.jpg" width="334" height="500" alt="DSC_3899"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50521892251/in/album-72157716586091166/" title="VPS Tintype 3"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50521892251_7e70c74f2f.jpg" width="374" height="500" alt="VPS Tintype 3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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I chose my black and silver 1830s evening dress for much the same reasons as the day dress--the contrast and location--this time, the Joseph Ambler Inn near Philadelphia. The dress is trimmed with black net with silver spots and I love how much the spots stand out. Meanwhile, my hairpiece with ribbons and silver foliage becomes part of the trees. In all three of these outside pictures, the green becomes so dark. It's amazing how much contrast is lost between me and the backgroud.
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50521894661/in/album-72157716586091166/" title="DSC_3589"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50521894661_45f40a7c98.jpg" width="334" height="500" alt="DSC_3589"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50521892306/in/album-72157716586091166/" title="VPS Tintype 1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50521892306_bba0664f12.jpg" width="354" height="500" alt="VPS Tintype 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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My 1918 plaid silk dress is from a time when many people owned cameras. Still, I thought the plaid and the background of the Great War Gallop hosted by <a href="http://wearinghistory.clothing/">Wearing History</a> would make for a good tintype. This one was reversed as it was taken, so the sign is correct. I like that this tintype picked up the differences in the tones of the dress colors fairly accurately, while the poster behind me looks like it was printed with just one color. This picture really feels like time travelling to me!
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50521169423/in/album-72157716586091166/" title="nonedited-17"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50521169423_12f056ded0.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="nonedited-17"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50522067707/in/album-72157716586091166/" title="VPS Tintype 7"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50522067707_d6e895c6b9.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="VPS Tintype 7"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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And one last picture--Alyxx as Crowley joining me at the fire fountain--how perfect! The shadows from the flames in this one are just fantastic. Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-62395392581008289812020-09-20T18:41:00.002-07:002021-02-04T20:28:42.257-08:00What I Would've Worn to Costume College 2020<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365944587/in/dateposted-public/" title="1830s Melisandre 1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365944587_8f926abf9c.jpg" width="500" height="492" alt="1830s Melisandre 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>So, 2020 has turned out, uh, not exactly as planned? Still, I did have plans for Costume College, and I did a photoshoot the weekend that Costume College was supposed to be with what I had done. For the gala this year, inspired by last year's gala dress, typos, and the fire fountain at Costume College, I was going to make an 1830s version of Melisandre. I still hope to--bringing in fantasy elements, beyond what 1830s fancy dress would've done--is something I'm looking forward to.</center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365786396/in/dateposted-public/" title="1830s Melisandre 3"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365786396_c2defcd02a.jpg" width="311" height="500" alt="1830s Melisandre 3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365090183/in/dateposted-public/" title="1830s Melisandre 2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365090183_0a12ccd418.jpg" width="311" height="500" alt="1830s Melisandre 2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>For this costume I have 1830s underthings, shoes, a necklace, and an idea. Posing in my show version of the Melisandre dress worn as a wrapper seemed appropriate!</center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365090298/in/dateposted-public/" title="30s Melisandre 3"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365090298_ff6ab078a7.jpg" width="336" height="500" alt="30s Melisandre 3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>And the 1930s Melisandre from the 2019 Costume College gala that inspired the 1830s dress. It's silk satin with I think close to 30,000 sequins at the hem. I planned to wear this on a trip to the Queen Mary too. Now, with more time, I'm planning on a matching sequined cape.</center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365090418/in/dateposted-public/" title="30s Melisandre 1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365090418_2a38675dba.jpg" width="279" height="500" alt="30s Melisandre 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365786691/in/dateposted-public/" title="30s Melisandre 2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365786691_49f6c167cd.jpg" width="279" height="500" alt="30s Melisandre 2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>The bodice is bias in the front and open in the back. I wasn't sure how it was going to work, but somehow it came together. </center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365944037/in/dateposted-public/" title="Cersei 1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365944037_bae1b5aec7.jpg" width="459" height="500" alt="Cersei 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>This is the state of my latest Cersei dress was in when WonderCon was cancelled on March 12. At the rate I was sewing, it probably had two or three hours before it would be done. The main dress, anyway. I still had wig styling and an updated belt.</center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365089693/in/dateposted-public/" title="Cersei 2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365089693_25b9ab3d1c.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Cersei 2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365089603/in/dateposted-public/" title="Cersei 3"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365089603_8d544c230f.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Cersei 3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>I've since been adding more embroidery--Italian mesh ribbon and tiny beads--to the sleeves. This dress fairly perfectly captures my current mood. </center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365943817/in/dateposted-public/" title="Regency 1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365943817_13b7a678fc.jpg" width="500" height="390" alt="Regency 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>I always like to include something that I just want to wear again. I picked this little cotton spencer and white dress at the last minute when I was taking pictures. </center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365089473/in/dateposted-public/" title="Regency 2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365089473_40e6c4d452.jpg" width="322" height="500" alt="Regency 2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365785441/in/dateposted-public/" title="Regency 3"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365785441_01b3f339c7.jpg" width="237" height="500" alt="Regency 3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>The train on this dress was a victim of Jane Austen Festival mud. The stripes on the pleated back of the spencer were quite fun to pleat.</center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365090038/in/dateposted-public/" title="1840s 1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365090038_5dfb93920b.jpg" width="500" height="391" alt="1840s 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>For the Young Victoria Dinner, hosted by my friend Robin, I was going to make an 1840s dress based on a dress in the Museum of London. The miles of bias ruffles on the skirt are done. Not much else. </center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365944292/in/dateposted-public/" title="1840s 2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365944292_0925d471d6.jpg" width="323" height="500" alt="1840s 2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="trfalse" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365786186/in/dateposted-public/" title="1840s 3"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365786186_17a13ceb3b.jpg" width="277" height="500" alt="1840s 3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>I do have accessories! Time was short so I bought a Timely Tresses straw bonnet, and I've had the black bonnet veil for years.</a></center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365089828/in/dateposted-public/" title="1930s 3"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365089828_2950ea86f2.jpg" width="336" height="500" alt="1930s 3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>Before Costume College, a group of us were going to go to the Wizarding World theme park at Universal and wear vintage Hogwarts costumes. Mine was going to be 1930s Ravenclaw, as if I were dressing for a reunion. It's still going to be a great 1930s outfit, even if I'm not quite comfortable cosplaying Harry Potter right now. Rowling's stances on trans rights are so saddening and frustrating.</center>
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365089873/in/dateposted-public/" title="1930s 2"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365089873_2b82eafa0f.jpg" width="336" height="500" alt="1930s 2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/50365786151/in/dateposted-public/" title="1930s 1"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365786151_32f7d288ff.jpg" width="362" height="500" alt="1930s 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>
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<center>I'm posing with the 1930s skirt and sweater I made to wear on the Queen Mary. That trip will still happen, and I imagine small trips like that will be possible before we can have events again.</center>
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<center>I have a few more pictures of these on Instagram--taking these pictures the weekend of Costume College was very good for me--using #costumecollegethatwasnt. My sewing Instagram is linked in the navigation above. I have lots of progress pictures there--costuming is so much more than completed costume! </center>
Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-41760906888060689722019-08-07T21:08:00.000-07:002019-08-11T14:57:49.307-07:00Melisandre's Glowing Necklace--For Those Who Know Nothing, A Tutorial<center>
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I think half the reason I wanted to make a Melisandre cosplay was to make her necklace. Once my friend Loren of <a href="http://costumerscloset.blogspot.com/">the Costumer's Closet</a>--who's done a lot of interesting work with props--suggested that the necklace light up, I knew I had to make it work. I found a few other necklaces online that lit up, but none of the ideas quite worked for my necklace, so I had to come up with my own way of doing it. This is an entirely new area for me! I know nothing about electronics--especially making them so small! <br />
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And about the post title--clearly, my subconscious was at work. I didn't really mean to make the reference, but since I do know nothing about this, it was a logical title, which obviously needed to be kept. More details about my trials and false starts at the bottom of this post. <br />
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For the stone, I used <a href="https://www.worbla.com/?p=9204">Worbla's Crystal Art</a> dyed with <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U2IXIZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">Rit DyeMore in racing red with a little charcoal mixed in</a>. I made a model of the stone with <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V8E7MW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">paper clay</a>. I used <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058VAG5A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">Amazing Mold Putty</a> to make the mold. It's lit up with an <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751CHFNN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">Accmor LED Mini Round Ball Balloon Light</a> that's held in with <a href="https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZWGD88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1">red electrical tape.</a> <br />
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For the necklace itself, I highly recommend <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/596428005/raw-3d-print-of-melisandre-inspired?">the 3D printed kit by TatianartCosplay on Etsy</a>. It's fantastic. It comes with everything you need (except pliers and glue), and has clear instructions. The stone took all of the stress out making my own--it didn't matter if mine didn't work. Backups are excellent things to have! I ordered a few extra links because I was also planning on wearing the necklace with my 1930s Melisandre dress, so wanted the necklace to go around my whole neck. <br />
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About the bulbs--researching making small things light up, the smallest thing I found was an LED bulb taped to a coin battery. A coin battery was bigger than my stone needed to be, so I decided to try two smaller button batteries with an LED bulb. This worked, but the two batteries were somewhat precarious, and the setup was still bigger than I needed. Targeted advertising to the rescue! I got an Amazon ad for bulbs meant for balloons and lanterns, and decided they were worth a try. They ended up being perfect. They were bigger than the model stone, but not too big for the link--all I would need to do would be to make a deeper stone. They come 100 to a bag, so I now have enough to light up an army of red priestesses...<br />
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I made the stone shape out of paper clay. This was surprisingly easy--I have no talent in this area, but the clay was easy to work with, and I just played with it until it made the shape of a stone. I made several because my first attempt shrunk and ended up being too small for the light bulb. <br />
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I split one of the light bulbs open and marked the back of the stones with it to measure how much they were shrinking. After a few hours, I picked the stone I thought was best and scooped the inside of the clay out. Then I left it to fully dry. The picture on the left with the mark from the bulb is actually the first attempt that shrunk. When I measured the bulb against it, the original line was just inside the bulb. The picture on the right shows the hollowed out stone that I ended up using with the bulb in it, showing that it still fit.<br />
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The yellow that's surrounding the stones is the Amazing Mold Putty. It's very easy to use--mix equal parts of both putties in the kit, and shove the stone in it. I used a kitchen scale to measure the putty. Once it's dry, the stones came out easily. <br />
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The next step was to dye the Worbla. I put it in a strainer, put some red dye and a little black dye in the container, and mixed it with boiling water. I didn't measure anything, just hoped for the best. This is also where I learned that my heat proof gloves were not also waterproof. <br />
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I don't have pictures of the next few steps, but they're fairly straightforward. I put the Worbla on a baking sheet and used a heat gun to melt it. Then I pressed it into the mold, making sure to press it around the edges and make it hollow. When it was still in the mold, I put a light bulb in and pressed the Worbla around it a little too. As it started to cool, leaving the bulb in, I took it out, and continued to shape it. The final shape had almost nothing to do with the shape of the mold, but it didn't matter--it worked and I liked it. I used a needle to poke holes in the top and bottom of the stone, and put lightweight eye pins through the holes. <br />
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Here's the finished stone, without the light bulb. You can easily see where I molded it around the bulb. I should've done it backwards, since the bulb itself made a little round impression that you can see when it's lit. I smoothed it out a bit, and it's not really noticeable, thankfully! <br />
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The light bulb is just wedged in with electrical tape. This may be slightly just thrown together, but it works really well. Having something more permanent would require a larger set up. The light bulbs are extremely bright, and I found they looked best if you put the bulb itself pointing towards your neck. <br />
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I twisted the eye pins together to make a stem at the top and bottom. The center link in the kit has indentations to hold the stone. Just add a little glue, and it holds securely. The links have been spray painted gold as a base. <br />
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I'm not going to say too much here--I just followed the instructions with the kit--but here are the links gilded and antiqued. <br />
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The completed necklace! The links are held together with jump rings and chains, which, while different than the original, is much easier to do, and makes an easy to wear necklace. <br />
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And now for a little about what didn't work. Here's the first try of the light--you can see how large it ended up being--too large to work with a stone. It also didn't want to hold together easily. Since I'd be inserting it each time I wore the necklace, this wasn't ideal. <br />
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The first attempt of the stone. It's too small because the paper clay shrunk a little, and I suspect I didn't make it deep enough. I also didn't melt the Worbla enough, so the original shape remained visible. Also, the red was clearly too light on its own--mixing in a little black made a huge difference! <br />
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And what do we say to the god of death? I've wanted to take this picture since the Battle of Winterfell--I do think this shows the glow nicely! <br />
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<br />Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-74392511292515349882019-08-05T13:15:00.002-07:002019-08-11T14:58:25.042-07:00A Late 1790s Bird Print Dress with a Diamond Back<center>
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My late 1790s dress is based on examples of cotton print dresses, and a remodeled 18th century dress from <a href="http://agreeabletyrant.dar.org/">An Agreeable Tyrant at the DAR Museum.</a> It's made of a cotton print from Colonial Williamsburg, lined with linen from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/">Burnley and Trowbridge</a>, and worn over stays, shift, and strapped petticoat.<br />
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I made the dress for the Jane Austen Festival in Kentucky, and it was as comfortable as a dress can be there. The pictures here were taken by my friend (in much better weather!), whose photography Instagram, @journeyofaphotog, can be seen <a href="https://www.instagram.com/journeyofaphotog/">here.</a><br />
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Construction for the dress can be seen <a href="https://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2019/08/a-late-1790s-dress-with-diamond-back.html">here</a><br />
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The diamond back is the feature that drew me to this dress, even though it is mostly obscured by the pattern! The double drawstring was an interesting detail that I found on an original cotton print dress, and I like the added depth it gives to the front bodice.<br />
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The way the dress works is typical of drawstring dresses. It's made over a fitted lining that pins shut. <br />
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Then the drawstrings close over the fitted lining. <br />
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This is a very easy dress to wear, and it's nice that it's slightly adjustable--I've worn it over different stays each time I've worn it. The diamond back is one of my favorite styles as well, so I'm glad I finally made a dress with it!Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-62881083558373607362019-08-05T13:15:00.001-07:002019-08-11T14:59:08.647-07:00A Late 1790s Dress with a Diamond Back--A Tutorial<center>
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My late 1790s print dress worn at the Jane Austen Festival. It's made of bird print cotton from Colonial Williamsburg, lined with linen from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/">Burnley and Trowbridge</a>, and worn over short stays made with springs (here--other pictures I was wearing my cupped short stays), a linen shift, and petticoat on straps. The dress closes with drawstrings in the front over a pinned linen lining. More pictures of the dress, including how it closes, can be seen <a href="https://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2019/08/a-late-1790s-bird-print-dress-with.html">here.</a><br />
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In 2017, I was lucky to be able to see <a href="http://agreeabletyrant.dar.org/">An Agreeable Tyrant at the DAR Museum.</a> I already owned the <a href="https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/b153-anagreeabletyrantfashionaftertherevolution.aspx">catalog</a>, which has scaled patterns for many of the dresses. I had been thinking of making a print dress when we saw a remodeled silk taffeta dress with just the sort of back I had been meaning to make for years, but never did. Seeing one in person made things click, and I knew that my new dress would finally have that back. <br />
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When you make a dress around a specific feature, it's probably best to use a fabric that doesn't obscure it!</center>
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There's a pattern scaled by <a href="https://themodernmantuamaker.wordpress.com/">the Modern Mantua Maker</a> in the book, and I used it for reference and the skirt shape, but I mainly went off what the dress looked like, and used my 18th century bodice block as a base. The pattern for this dress is laid on top of my 18th century pattern. I changed the angle of the back shoulders, cut off the point, straightened the underarm shape and make it a little shorter, and made longer straps. The strap is wider in front than the bodice strap. This is to make hemming it easier later on. I used the same sleeve pattern as in my <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2012/10/setting-18th-century-sleeves.html">setting sleeve tutorial--the 18th century style that has a corner.</a> Since the armscye was bigger than the original dress, I set it without the pleats so common in the 18th century. You can see that the dress in the DAR originally had pleats in the sleeves as well--fold lines remain. The marks on the center back piece show wher the shoulder strap belongs.<br />
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The first picture shows the pattern over my 18th century block. The second shows the pattern on its own. <br />
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You'll notice that the shape of the lining doesn't match the diamond back. That's because the print fabric seamlines don't match the seamlines of the lining. This was commonly done in dresses. It's much easier to get a good fit, and then adjust the outer fabric as you want. I also shortened the waist for this dress. I kept the pattern long to make it more versatile. <br />
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First, fold the point of the center back down a little. Then pin the side pieces to the side back seams, and the shoulder pieces to the shoulder seams. The straps should extend past the center back and touch at the center of the fold. <br />
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The shoulder straps in more detail. They extend past the center back so they can be hemmed later. They overlap a little here, but that's because they meet at the center back to give the top point of the diamond shape. <br />
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The neckline edge is hemmed with a narrow hem. Here's what it looks like at this point--this is the side the fabric is mounted to.<br />
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Fold the shoulder strap seam allowance up, towards the other seams. I should've done this from the start! This finishes the edge of the armscye when you set the top of the sleeve. Pin the shoulder strap the the front strap--the fold should be even with the underarm, and the neck edge should extend past the neck edge of the front strap. <br />
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Sew everything and hem the bottom and front edges, and it's ready for the outer fabric!</center>
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I made the center back piece the same shape as the lining, but you don't really have to do that. Fold the top of the center back to match the lining and if you want, you can fold the bottom edge too. It wasn't always done because it's covered by the skirt, but I like to do it. The side pieces will be a different shape than the lining. I just extended them to make them a shape I liked. Fold the seam allowances under, and pin. This step isn't best shown with such a busy print, but the shakily drawn green line shows the folded under edge. The side pieces meet where the line ends. The place where the side pieces form a V is also where I mounted the skirt. These seams are sewn with a spaced back stitch. <br />
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Now for the back skirt. I pleated the skirt based on the draft in <i>An Agreeable Tyrant</i>. It's sewn to the back, right sides to right sides, at a curved angle above the waistline. The sides of the back of the skirt roughly hit at the underarms. The skirt is sewn to the bodice with a back stitch.<br />
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The front of the dress is one piece, shoulder to hem. It closes at the neckline and waist with drawstrings. The double drawstring is based on an original. I used the front lining piece as a guide, and made it wider so it would be full enough to gather in. The center front is a hemmed slit.<br />
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The seam allowance is then folded under and top stitched to the bodice with a spaced back stitch at the shoulder strap and underarm seam. Then it's turned inside out, and the front skirt seam sewn to the back, right sides together, with a running stitch. <br />
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I don't have pictures of setting the sleeve. Except for leaving out the pleats, I followed <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2012/10/setting-18th-century-sleeves.html">my 18th century sleeve tutorial.</a> A brief summary--sew the underarm of the sleeve in, from the corner in back to where the front strap meets the strap lining. Then ease the top of the sleeve over the top strap lining. Sew the top of the sleeve to the shoulder strap, near the folded edge. Then place the outer fabric strap over the lining and top of the sleeve with the seam allowances folded under, and top stitch it down over the back shoulder seam and the shoulder edge, and the front shoulder strap. This is all shown in the tutorial! <br />
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The shoulder strap still extends past the center back and the front strap. Hem both the lining and outer fabric together, as shown in the picture above. <br />
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And that's basically it! Except, of course, for hems and all the little finishing details that always take longer than you expect...Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-45378219967894034092019-04-27T13:06:00.000-07:002019-08-11T14:59:42.336-07:001830s Day and Evening Hair<center>
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For my friend <a href="https://sewloud.wordpress.com/2019/04/22/a-white-1830s-gown/">Robin's Young Victoria Dinner</a>, I knew I needed to give as much attention to my hair as my dress--the 1830s had some of the most distinctive hair in history. Hair is not my strong point as a costumer, but the architectural qualities of 1830s hair gave me some reassurance that I could do it. It looked extremely strange as it was coming together, but when all the pieces are in place--the side curls, bun, and sleeve, it's remarkably balanced. <br />
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For the side curls, I used <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WRBSYB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1">these side swept clip in bangs from Amazon</a> and curled them. I set them with sponge rollers and boiled them for a few seconds to set them. I got the idea from <a href="http://thelacedangel.blogspot.com/2016/08/romantic-redux.html">Christina of The Laced Angel</a> who does amazing 1830s hair. I ended up curling three sets of bangs since I rushed through setting my second set. Don't do that. And apologies for the vertical and horizontal pictures. I try to be good and keep them consistent...<br />
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The back braid is very simple. It's just a long piece of braiding hair braided and pinned with small bobby pins into a bun. I left the top open--initially because it gave me the shape I wanted, but then I realized I could use it that way to anchor the evening part of the hairpiece. I sewed an invisible hairnet around the bun to secure it. <br />
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I was going to do loops and braids of hair, and even started to arrange a loop on a piece of folded poster board, but I the event was less than a week away, and I looked at the loose hair I had and felt a little defeated. I had pinned <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092913102398/">this portrait though, with a woman with ribbon coming out of her bun.</a> That I could do easily! I used strips of fabric from my dress with the ends folded in to form ribbon loops. I sewed pieces of a glittery branch I found a Pier 1 in between them. Then I wrapped a braid around the base and sewed it into place, then added a few small bobby pins. Once again, I sewed an invisible hairnet over it. <br />
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The evening hairpiece pins into the day hairpiece with a few U shaped hairpins. </center>
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To wear the hairpieces, I started with a center part that I split into a Y shaped part a few inches back. I put my hair in a small bun, and pinned the day hairpiece to it, using U shaped pins--they work well, and that way I wouldn't take the bobby pins holding the bun itself together out when I took the hairpiece off. I smoothed down my hair with Got2B Glued hair gel. My hair is extremely fussy and doesn't like to stay in place, and minutes after putting the bun in, it was creeping up. I then put small side buns in to clip the side curls to. My side curls already had wig/toupee clips in them, so I didn't need any more pins. Full disclosure, these aren't the buns I ended up with. I redid them with braided buns, which laid flatter and were easier to hide some of my hairline with. I just forgot to take a picture. I twisted the back of my hair into a French twist, and secured it with pins and more gel. <br />
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The hair from the back--a little messy, but since it's technically not long enough for the style, I'm quite pleased with it! <br />
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And my hair stayed all day--something it rarely does, even with hairpieces. I was definitely pleased with that! </center>
Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-73088622862945618822018-11-19T15:46:00.000-08:002019-08-11T15:00:28.449-07:00A 1918 Plaid Silk Dress<center>
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When my friend Lauren of <a href="http://wearinghistory.clothing/">Wearing History</a> announced she was hosting the Great War Gallop to commemorate the 100 year anniversary of the end of World War I, I immediately wanted to go, and wanted a new dress. After a little searching, I found <a href="http://www.antiquedress.com/item4328.htm">this plaid dress from Antique dress.</a> I found the perfect pink and green small scale plaid from <a href="http://www.puresilks.us/">Pure Silks</a>, and, less than a week before the dance, made the dress. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143811450/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress 4"><img alt="Plaid Dress 4" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/44143811450_e2efa55aeb_z.jpg" width="427" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143813140/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress 5"><img alt="Plaid Dress 5" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4841/44143813140_4f7ddf893d_z.jpg" width="416" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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The pattern for my bodice is an altered version of the <a href="http://wearinghistory.clothing/elsie-1910s-wwi-era-blouse-pattern/">Wearing History Elsie blouse pattern. </a> The underskirt is the underskirt part of the <a href="http://www.pastpatterns.com/7035.html">Past Patterns 1913-1915 skirt pattern</a> and I drafted the overskirt myself. There are pictures of the pattern alterations at the bottom of the post. <br />
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The dress is mostly machine sewn. Besides basting the collar in and the lace on the collar, only the piped center panel and cuffs, tacking the center panel down, and closures are done by hand. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/31021208487/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress 7"><img alt="Plaid Dress 7" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4814/31021208487_48a6311619_z.jpg" width="426" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143814040/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress 6"><img alt="Plaid Dress 6" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4843/44143814040_8afc3a767d_z.jpg" width="409" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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I'm wearing the dress over the 1918 Austerity corset from <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Corsets-Historical-Techniques-Jill-Salen/dp/0896762610/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542668055&sr=8-1&keywords=corsets+jill+salen">Corsets by Jill Salen</a>, petticoat from the <a href="https://www.folkwear.com/products/203-edwardian-underthings?variant=35177962254">Folkwear Edwardian Underthings pattern</a>, and a chemise and corset cover that I drafted myself based on period examples. Even though the skirt is very narrow, I find it sits best with a full petticoat beneath it. My hat is antique, I bought it on eBay ages ago, and the shoes are custom dance shoes from a store that's since gone out of business. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/31021209967/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress 2"><img alt="Plaid Dress 2" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4825/31021209967_fdb589b523_z.jpg" width="427" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/31021212897/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress 3"><img alt="Plaid Dress 3" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4856/31021212897_e8770828de_z.jpg" width="427" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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I thought that the buckles on the original dress would be easy to find, but they weren't. I found some black buckles on eBay and spray painted them pink. I'm wearing a poppy and my original Votes for Women button as well. The collar is a straight piece of Swiss muslin from <a href="http://www.farmhousefabrics.com/">Farmhouse Fabrics</a> and trimmed with vintage lace. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/31021213917/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress 12"><img alt="Plaid Dress 12" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4851/31021213917_a4afc881b7_z.jpg" width="468" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143810130/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress 8"><img alt="Plaid Dress 8" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4885/44143810130_fdae043a63_z.jpg" width="427" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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The hall where the dance was held was built in 1911 and hosted dances for soldiers during WWI. The newspapers were a perfect touch! And it's a good thing still photos don't show that you don't actually know how to dance. <br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="1138" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/301691710" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe></center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143828220/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Fastenings 1"><img alt="Plaid Dress Fastenings 1" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4886/44143828220_400b0400cc_z.jpg" width="427" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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The dress has a somewhat complicated way of closing. Here's the full dress, completely unfastened.</center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143831740/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Fastenings 2"><img alt="Plaid Dress Fastenings 2" height="333" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4844/44143831740_d06d8c53d4.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143836190/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Fastenings 3"><img alt="Plaid Dress Fastenings 3" height="333" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4814/44143836190_27bacd6e4c.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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First, the dress fastens at center front. There are snaps on the bodice and the inner waistband closes with hooks and bars. </center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143840270/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Fastenings 4"><img alt="Plaid Dress Fastenings 4" height="333" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4912/44143840270_ce2267778d.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143843880/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Fastenings 5"><img alt="Plaid Dress Fastenings 5" height="333" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4826/44143843880_c5373c312d.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Then the center front panel, which is sewn at the top right side for an inch or so and the waist, fastens at the left side with hooks and bars. There are two hooks and bars at the waist because I misplaced the first one and it needed to be moved. It was easier to do a second one and leave the first just in case it was right. <br />
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After the front panel is closed, the overskirt, which is on a separate waistband and sewn to the inner waistband, fastens. I thought about attaching the panel to the waistband, but decided that it would be easier to fasten them separately. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143847460/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Fastenings 6"><img alt="Plaid Dress Fastenings 6" height="427" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4835/44143847460_6074ae4a37_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Then the separate belt fastens with two hooks and bars over the whole thing. </center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/31021237757/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Pattern 2"><img alt="Plaid Dress Pattern 2" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4849/31021237757_191bdc4601_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/31021240757/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Pattern 3"><img alt="Plaid Dress Pattern 3" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4911/31021240757_8d08990691_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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The pattern alterations were really quite straightforward. Fortunately the pictures of the original dress included one of the dress open so it was easy to figure out what was happening. I just changed the neckline to a square, and folded a piece of fabric into a trapezoid to create the front panel. I did accidentally make the square neckline a bit high, but that was easy to fix without doing anything--I just unsnapped the first snap and tucked it down a bit.<br />
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I also trimmed the length a bit, not shown here, because it's a blouse meant to be tucked in. I did that on the actual dress, but not the pattern. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/31021234937/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Pattern 1"><img alt="Plaid Dress Pattern 1" height="480" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4918/31021234937_5646af7cc2_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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This is the front panel of the skirt. The back panel is nearly identical--the short side is just a little bit longer. The bias side seam was sewn, the skirt was hemmed, then machine gathered and sewn to the waistband. The shorter, straight of grain side was left open. Then to tuck the skirt up, I sewed a snap on the inside seam and a matching snap at the hem. Much easier for ironing than tacking it into place. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/45910978162/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Construction 1"><img alt="Plaid Dress Construction 1" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4906/45910978162_9643375b01_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/44143807460/in/album-72157700549736792/" title="Plaid Dress Construction 2"><img alt="Plaid Dress Construction 2" height="640" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4911/44143807460_e509a002b5_z.jpg" width="480" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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I don't have many construction pictures--that's what happens when you start a dress on Sunday for the following Saturday. On the left you can see the bodice sewn to the internal waistband before I trimmed the excess. On the right is the almost finished dress without the overskirt. <br />
<br />Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-4580158120158589892018-08-02T23:31:00.001-07:002019-08-11T15:00:58.587-07:00A Game of Thrones King's Landing/Handmaiden Dress<center>
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42913529095/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 1"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 1" height="800" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1800/42913529095_6dcfa1bcba_c.jpg" width="600" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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One of my favorite style dresses from Game of Thrones is the drapey, robe a la francaise/piemontaise type dresses popular in King's Landing--worn by women in town, handmaidens, Shae, and more. It's the perfect dress for the last day of Costume College (or any other convention) when you want to wear something, but be a little more relaxed! <br />
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Construction information for this dress, including a diagram, can be found<a href="https://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2018/08/making-game-of-thrones-kings.html"> here.</a> The dress is very simple though--it's just a tube of washed silk taffeta from <a href="http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/">Renaissance Fabrics</a> with drawstrings at the center back and center front, fastened at the center back with ribbons, and worn with a belt. Some construction can be seen on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/got_handmaiden_k/">Instagram.</a><br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42913530445/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 2"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 2" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1778/42913530445_730b719fd6.jpg" width="375" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42913531555/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 3"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 3" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/939/42913531555_6e5f258c27.jpg" width="375" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Full length views of the dress--it looks much more structured than it really is! The belt is made of Worbla and chainmail. Unfortunately, I used the wrong type of rings and it pretty much burst apart when I took a deep breath. <br />
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I made a new, simpler hairpiece than <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2014/07/game-of-thones-kings-landing-hair.html">my first hairpiece.</a> It's two braids twisted together with the ends tucked under with a narrow braid wrapped around it. I sewed a hairnet over it to keep everything in place, and sewed wig clips to the bottom. The back is just a very long narrow braid twisted into a bun. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42913533505/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 4"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 4" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1835/42913533505_4ace3d0bb5.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42913532575/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 5"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 5" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1771/42913532575_0b300c9cbb.jpg" width="334" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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The back drape falls in folds to fairly deep in the skirt--about knee level. This makes the dress extremely flowy. The back pleats are narrower than the front pleats, which gives a very elegant line.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42913537845/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 6"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 6" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/848/42913537845_d6a0a7d13d.jpg" width="334" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42913534375/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 7"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 7" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/852/42913534375_15f99509b2.jpg" width="334" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Though it's not obvious in still pictures that the dress is almost five yards around, it's obvious when the dress moves. Especially if it there's any wind. I think my dress is a little fuller than the dresses on the show, but I'm fine with that! <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29947652708/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 8"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 8" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/934/29947652708_ec710ce254.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29947648808/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 9"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 9" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1836/29947648808_1a4b5786e6.jpg" width="334" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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The gap in the back between the pleats and the dress makes a drapey dress more fitted. Most of the dresses have a decorative center front panel, which also gives shape to the dress. Mine is hand embroidered because I couldn't find a contrast panel that I liked. <br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="640" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/282966418" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe><br />
<a href="https://vimeo.com/282966418">Game of Thrones Dress</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1708865">Katherine</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</center>
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And a short video of the dress in motion by <a href="http://www.damesalamode.com/">Taylor of Dames a la Mode.</a> And evidence of what my belt looked like before the chainmail fell apart. My earrings are also by her. Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-47947300841440260342018-08-02T23:31:00.000-07:002019-08-11T15:01:32.029-07:00Making A Game of Thrones King's Landing/Handmaiden Dress<center>
<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29945875398/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 1"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 1" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1778/29945875398_327e724251.jpg" width="334" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879163217/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 2"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 2" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1780/28879163217_257ec44ca5.jpg" width="335" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879161867/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden 3"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden 3" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/935/28879161867_8039203e36.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Since first seeing them, I loved the gowns that Cersei's handmaidens, women in King's Landing, and later Shae wore. Looking at them, I realized that they were really quite simple--a giant tube with drawstrings at center front and back and belted at the waist. Mine is made from about five yards of silk taffeta from <a href="http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/">Renaissance Fabrics</a> which I washed to change the drape of. My belt is made of Worbla based on <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l62TXbAfMoo"> this tutorial by Jak Cosplay.</a> I learned the hard way that you should read the description carefully on your chainmail rings and make sure they're not for jewelry. <br />
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After figuring out my dress, I did a search to see how others had done them. I found a sketch that someone who had come to the same conclusion had done, but haven't been able to find it again. I also found <a href="https://m.facebook.com/groups/143491629077875?view=permalink&id=832582540168777">a post on the Game of Thrones Costuming Facebook group with a similar technique. </a><br />
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More pictures of the dress can be found <a href="https://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2018/08/a-game-of-thrones-kings.html">here</a><br />
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Being me, I hand embroidered the front panel, used fingerloop braiding for the ties (using the videos seen <a href="https://loopbraider.com/2011/06/05/5-loop-v-fell-fingerloop-braids-cobbled-together-tutorial-video/">here</a>. I used 5 loop flat for the drawstring and 5 loop square for the tie. I finished the ends with gold rings from <a href="http://www.firemountaingems.com/">Fire Mountain Gems</a> by sewing them to the ends and wrapping the join with thread), and hand sewed the seams. However, this can be a very quick project! You can see some progress pictures using the <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/got_handmaiden_k/">hashtag got_handmaiden_k</a> on Instagram. <br />
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But onto the dress! First, a video of putting it on. I also have pictures at the bottom of the post, but the video shows it more clearly. And obviously I don't wear a camisole or underskirt when I'm wearing it, but it was necessary to do something for pictures! <br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/282944101" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe><br />
<a href="https://vimeo.com/282944101">GoT Handmaiden Dress</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1708865">Katherine</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29945875688/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 1"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 1" height="424" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/942/29945875688_a8899840ba_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Here's the pattern for the dress. It really is just a giant tube--this pattern shows half of it. It's of course sized for me, but since it's fitted with drawstrings, very adjustable. I used three panels of 55 inch silk and a contrast panel in front. The width of the contrast panel was decided by the width of the design. You could also use your fabric sideways and have fewer seams, but I was using shot silk and liked the color better used the usual way. <br />
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My dress has a circumference of 4.78 yards, or 4.38 meters. It could be a little less full, but not by much. I tried it with two panels of fabric but it wasn't nearly enough and I had to order more. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29945877898/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 2"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 2" height="427" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1798/29945877898_588d64fbcc_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Here's the dress laid out flat. If you go to the full size picture in Flickr, you can read the cards around the dress.There are also close ups below</center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29945879868/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 3"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 3" height="333" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/859/29945879868_4fe56ab407.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879173877/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 4"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 4" height="333" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1771/28879173877_50a74f2e0a.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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To determine the size of the drawstring channel at the center front, I held the dress up to me and bunched it until I liked it. The channel is 36 inches or 90 cm long.<br />
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To sew it, I first sewed the channel (a strip of silk on the straight of grain) right side to right side. Then I hemmed the top of the dress on either side. Then I folded the channel down and sewed it into place. I topstitched the top edge to help keep it flat. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879176967/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 6"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 6" height="333" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/857/28879176967_ac7f84b88c.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879181467/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 7"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 7" height="333" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1774/28879181467_90ab69faa3.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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I did the same thing for the back, but left out the topstitching. The back channel is 10 inches or 25 cm long.</center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879185467/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 5"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 5" height="427" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1772/28879185467_1643b9f7aa_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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To determine where the waist ties should go, I pulled the fabric to the center back and pinned the dress at my waist. I sewed China silk ribbons about an inch in from the edge. These ribbons keep everything where it belongs so the belt doesn't have to do as much work. Ribbons don't need to be as exact as something like hooks and eyes, which works well since the neck might be tied differently or the gathers might be in a slightly different place each time you wear the dress. <br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879189047/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 8"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 8" height="427" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1792/28879189047_eeb6437b9d_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Because the neckline dips down and becomes the waist, hemming this dress was quite awkward! I used the same technique I <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2014/04/hemming-without-help-tutorial.html">described in this post</a> only the hem was too steep to just fold it, so I had to cut as I went.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879192077/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 9"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 9" height="333" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1776/28879192077_01d9bd7cbb.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42911898015/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 10"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 10" height="333" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1812/42911898015_1c27dcbf35.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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To make the tube into a dress, thread the neckband through the front drawstring channel. Here it is flat and gathered.</center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42911902075/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 11"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 11" height="333" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1818/42911902075_12dd26af52.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42911906485/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 12"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 12" height="333" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/928/42911906485_509fd52c9e.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Then thread the neckband through the back. Once again, here it is flat and gathered.</center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42911910565/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 13"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 13" height="427" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1811/42911910565_fbe4029088_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Then tie the ends of the neckband together. You could also use a longer neckband and tie it like you would a drawstring. I like the loops at the end because they make it easy to tie it the same length each time.<br />
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42911914055/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 14"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 14" height="320" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1776/42911914055_f7f2c86e2a_n.jpg" width="213" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/42911917135/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 15"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 15" height="320" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1814/42911917135_dd3a2d706c_n.jpg" width="213" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29945898158/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 16"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 16" height="320" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1820/29945898158_2a7ca57c79_n.jpg" width="213" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29945899668/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 17"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 17" height="320" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/931/29945899668_0dc32d783a_n.jpg" width="213" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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And here's what it looks like! It's one of those dresses that really does need to be worn to get an idea of what it's like!</center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29945901018/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 18"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 18" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1776/29945901018_9642f03164.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29945902278/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 19"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 19" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1837/29945902278_f74caae58d.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Putting it on is better illustrated in the video, but pictures are useful as well! To start, put your head through the neckband.</center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29945903738/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 20"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 20" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1820/29945903738_c73a7e64d0.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879216577/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 21"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 21" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1798/28879216577_063c94c006.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Put your arms through the holes at the sides and adjust the neck tie.</center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879218777/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 22"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 22" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/861/28879218777_1a12b779f9.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879220317/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 23"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 23" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1813/28879220317_76eedd7397.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Take the waist ties and tie them at center back. This is a little awkward with all the fabric in the way! </center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879222467/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 24"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 24" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/935/28879222467_98ac7bbab0.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879224577/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 25"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 25" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/862/28879224577_fec6d54985.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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Here's what it looks like tied, and with the back drape hanging in place.</center>
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<a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879226377/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 26"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 26" height="500" src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1792/28879226377_a680468b72.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28879228257/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 27"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 27" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/860/28879228257_b1cd88654a.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/29945922928/in/album-72157691603053010/" title="GoT Handmaiden Construction 28"><img alt="GoT Handmaiden Construction 28" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/942/29945922928_5348153559.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>
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And add a belt (or not, they're worn beltless too...) and that's it! </center>
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<br />Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-33369149259230194072017-12-31T19:04:00.001-08:002017-12-31T19:04:59.015-08:00Princess Leia's Bespin Costume--If Star Wars Took Place Around 1800...<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38520321115/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="Jae-16"><img alt="Jae-16" height="429" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4691/38520321115_0491834c3f_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
For Costume College 2016, <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/">Jen Thompson</a> had a fabulous idea--historical versions of Star Wars costumes. I wanted to participate, and was thinking of what to do, when on the way to the Jane Austen Evening (perfect!), the idea of Leia's bespin costume as Regency popped into my head. After all, if you look at it, it practically is 1790s with its overdress, and, well, overdress. Definitely workable, and daydreaming made the trip so much better. <br />
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My idea for this dress was to make a dress that would fit into the Regency period, yet be recognizable as Leia's costume as well. To do this, I made a typical c. 1800 round gown, with a sleeveless overdress based on period overdresses. Dresses with paisley borders--made from shawls or in imitation of shawls--were popular, and I decided to imitate that look by embroidering just the hem of the overdress instead of continuing it up the whole back of the dress. The back of the overdress is pleated--like many original dresses, and as a nod to the collar of the movie costume. I considered putting a collar on the back of the overdress, which was seen on originals, but I decided I liked the pleated look too much to cover it. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38538937095" title="Jae-42"><img alt="Jae-42" height="500" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4736/38538937095_787de331a4.jpg" width="331" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/27640429859" title="Jae-46"><img alt="Jae-46" height="500" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4688/27640429859_358dbfb3c7.jpg" width="297" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
In addition to wearing this to Costume College, I wore it to tea at the Huntington before the 2017 Jane Austen Evening. Once again, I was so lucky to have pictures taken by my friend, <a href="http://llyrafantasyfae.blogspot.com/">Llyra Lee</a>. I couldn't have made the dress without help from my friend <a href="http://www.costumersguide.com/maggie_costumes/leia_bespin.html">Maggie</a> who made a beautiful version of the dress, and helped with my embroidery design. <br />
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Construction information for the dress can be found <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2017/12/regency-leia-bodice-and-pleated-open.html">here,</a> including some details from my visit to the Fashion Museum in Bath earlier in the year. My journal for the dress is <a href="https://koshka-the-cat.dreamwidth.org/tag/bespin+regency">here,</a> and details most of my thoughts as I made it. The silk taffeta is from <a href="http://www.fabricmartfabrics.com">Fabric Mart,</a> the voile from <a href="http://www.farmhousefabrics.com">Farmhouse Fabrics,</a> and the linen lining is from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com">Burnley and Trowbridge.</a> <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38690315674/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="Jae-18"><img alt="Jae-18" height="428" src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4683/38690315674_8e2ae1e71a_z.jpg" width="640" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
The pleated back of the dress is one width of fabric, neck to hem. It's pleated to fit the linen lining. The bun and braids is a hairpiece. To make it, I took two long pieces of braiding hair, braided the center, leaving the ends loose, looped the braids, attached them to each other, and made a bun from the loose hair. I then covered the bun with an invisible hairnet which I sewed over it to keep everything into place. From there, I just pinned it on. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38690315454/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="Jae-15"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4601/38690315454_3a7b272a5f.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="Jae-15"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/24552300077" title="IMG_20160710_194919963"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4735/24552300077_da6ebfe1cf.jpg" width="500" height="344" alt="IMG_20160710_194919963"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
My shawl is made of three yards of voile from <a href="http://www.dharmatrading.com">Dharma Trading.</a> I used <a href="">a Rebel Alliance stencil from CeeCeesSpecialties on Etsy</a> for the pattern, which I painted with gold Lumiere Fabric paint and DecoArt SoSoft Fine Glitter. I traced the design on and then put it in an embroidery hoop to stabilize it as I painted it. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382209402/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1987"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4378/36382209402_0b707878b2.jpg" width="404" height="500" alt="DSC_1987"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38709598654/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="712689_600"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4641/38709598654_f777ca4726.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="712689_600"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script><br />
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The pendant I wore with the dress--a silhouette of Han and Leia--was made by <a href="https://www.etsy.com/transaction/1159349724">CrystallineFairy</a> on Etsy. The Rebel Alliance pin that can be seen in the pictures from the Huntington (I forgot to bring it to Costume College) is from the 1997 rerelease. I bought it on eBay. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36504199266/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_2066"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4368/36504199266_6247539a0f.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_2066"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38710048034" title="IMG_20160713_175123749"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4644/38710048034_2fa8fd0838.jpg" width="334" height="334" alt="IMG_20160713_175123749"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
With the novel reading heroines of the Regency in mind, I decided I needed a book as a prop. I bought a small book from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/VersLibris?ref=l2-shopheader-name">VersLibris</a> on Etsy and added a title plate for Dagobah Abbey using double sided tape. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/27641090099" title="DSC_2036"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4688/27641090099_e7e552b1a8.jpg" width="500" height="283" alt="DSC_2036"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382203712/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="IMG_20160721_171751594"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/36382203712_997b8245fb.jpg" width="500" height="281" alt="IMG_20160721_171751594"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The garters are based on <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O139317/pair-of-garters-unknown/">a pair in the Victoria and Albert Museum.</a> They say Je T'aime and Je Sais (I love you, I know). They're silk, interlined with cotton flannel, embroidered with Au Ver Au Soie embroidery thread, and trimmed with China silk ribbon from <a href="http://stores.ebay.com/Silky-Way">Silky Way.</a><br />
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My reticule is based on early 19th century inked bags. I browsed through memorial art until I found a design that I could reasonably imitate with my drawing skills, and dedicated it to the memory of Alderaan. <br />
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The embroidery is done with wool from my local embroidery store. It's all done in back stitch. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/27641295859" title="713676_600"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4727/27641295859_bea106348f.jpg" width="500" height="323" alt="713676_600"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/27641348609" title="Jae-26"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4727/27641348609_4bc5aa2c7e.jpg" width="500" height="327" alt="Jae-26"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script><br />
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And worn with two different groups--our Star Wars historical group at Costume College, and our Regency group at the Huntington--I think it fits in nicely with both! <br />
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Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-49676229172986140382017-12-31T19:04:00.000-08:002017-12-31T19:05:43.428-08:00Regency Leia Bodice and Pleated Open Robe--Some ConstructionMy Regency Leia dress was the first dress I made after I was lucky enough to study some late 1790s/early 1800s dresses in person at the Fashion Museum in Bath. I used a few of those techniques on this dress. A little ironic considering the fantasy origin of the dress, but, being me, I did want to make it as accurate as possible--even if the embroidery pattern may have been a bit strange to early 19th century eyes! <br />
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The completed dress can be seen <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2017/12/princess-leias-bespin-costume-if-star.html">here</a>.<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/35715630204/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1794"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4434/35715630204_2c1341535c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1794"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/35715631704/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1796"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/35715631704_f0fe93d3c3.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1796"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The dress is made of silk taffeta with a linen lining. <br />
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The first step was to baste the center back neckline lining to the silk. Then, the two layers were turned under and hemmed.<br />
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Many of the extant dresses we looked at had a row of large stitches on the back neckline. We wondered about the purpose. When I made this dress, it became obvious--it was much easier to neatly hem the curve of the neckline without the fabrics shifting when it was basted. And since it doesn't show, there's no reason to take the basting out. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382197412/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1797"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36382197412_3aff9e7509.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1797"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382198192/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1798"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/36382198192_4eaac44eb0.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1798"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
After the center back is done, the seam allowances on the silk fronts are folded under, and sewn to the back. The seams are sewn where the pins are. Although in the past I've sewn lapped seams very close to the fold, many of the dresses we studied had seams sewn a little ways in from the fold, which gave the seams a defined look. <br />
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After the silk is sewn, the lining is inserted. The seam allowances were folded under and whipstitched in. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382198542/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1799"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/36382198542_e3e85ccd0d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1799"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382198982/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1800"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4418/36382198982_2fcebd0867.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1800"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
Once the lining is done, the edges of the bodice are hemmed. The hem starts at the side back, around the strap, down the neckline, the center front flap, the bottom edge of the bodice, and continues until the other shoulder strap. <br />
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The silk doesn't extend all the way over the center front flaps--only to where it's going to be covered by the center front gathered panels. <br />
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Although a bodice of this shape could easily be hemmed without hemming the center back first, doing it this way would work very well for a more square shaped back, where there's no slope between the center back and the back straps. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382199892/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1801"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/36382199892_b8b22491bb.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1801"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382200802/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1802"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36382200802_0741ae95fe.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1802"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The center front gathered panels are just rectangular strips that are hemmed at the top and bottom for drawstrings with a curve cut out for the armscye. The seam allowance at the side seam is turned over and topstitched to the bodice. The top of the panel is sewn to the shoulder strap where it's pinned. <br />
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The sleeves are then set normally. The skirt is a slightly gored tube that opens at center front. I cartridge pleated it and sewed it to the bottom edge of the bodice, being careful to not catch the drawstring. The front panel is slightly gathered with most of the gathers being concentrated in back. <br />
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Most dresses I've seen from this time have the center back of the skirt mounted about an inch or so above the back waist and sewn right side to right side, which makes it stand out a bit, but I chose not to do this on this dress because I wanted a flatter line under my overdress. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382202072/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1804"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4386/36382202072_c314018566.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1804"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382202512/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1805"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/36382202512_15fa6d7ff3.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1805"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The overdress is cotton voile lined with linen. I completed the bodice except for the top hem and securing the voile layer on the shoulder straps. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36382202832/in/album-72157684838225281/" title="DSC_1806"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4361/36382202832_a7c96c5773.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="DSC_1806"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The back is one rectangular panel from neck to hem. It's really quite simple--the panel is pinned at the center front and sides, and then pleated until everything is pleated and it looks nice. I have an inverted box pleat at the center back with all the other pleats facing it.<br />
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All the pleats are sewn down and trimmed. The center back neckline was finished with a strip of fabric that was turned to the inside and hemmed. The front neckline was turned under and hemmed. The sleeves were finished with strips of voile on the bias and hemmed. <br />
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The center front is pinned shut--and worn with a Rebel Alliance pin, of course :)<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38690315674/in/dateposted-public/" title="Jae-18"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4683/38690315674_8e2ae1e71a.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="Jae-18"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center>Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-54775767839477485402017-11-22T20:24:00.000-08:002017-11-22T20:24:06.993-08:00Tintype Photography, Or A Photographic Trip to the Past<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589958501/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="2017g4"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4562/38589958501_5649994e21.jpg" width="428" height="500" alt="2017g4"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589983041/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="IMG_20171118_214516"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4546/38589983041_f57e11bf48.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20171118_214516"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
A group of friends and I went to Gettysburg for Remembrance Day, where we spent most of our time at the fabulous <a href="http://www.victorianphotostudio.com/">Victorian Photography Studio.</a> We also visited <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2017/05/a-rather-loud-plaid-wool-1860s-dress.html">in 2015,</a> but the new owner encourages social media and digital photography, which made the experience even more interesting as it was possible to take detailed comparison pictures in the same environment. <br />
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The above pictures were taken at nighttime, between dinner and the second half of the ball (yes, a few of us missed half the ball to have a few more tintypes made!). In period, photographers were dependent on daylight, but thankfully the studio has an excellent daylight mimicking light setup. All of the color pictures were taken with our cell phones and haven't been touched up, just cropped to help the comparisons a bit. <br />
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The ball gown I'm wearing is one of my older dresses. I made the skirt in 2007 and the bodice in 2010. I think the color shift in the wet plate was the most interesting of my dresses. The green in my skirt has quite a bit of yellow in it--it's shot with one of the threads a goldish color--and it darkened noticeably. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38532781726/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="2017g10"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4574/38532781726_74a6b903b8.jpg" width="500" height="364" alt="2017g10"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589971361/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="FB_IMG_1510956026356"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4576/38589971361_b65d60d16e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="FB_IMG_1510956026356"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
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I love that we had such a variety of fabrics and patterns in our group shots. Some of our dresses shifted in expected ways--however, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/bulldogandbaum/">Leia's dress</a> has a striking contrast of rust and chartreuse in real life, but faded into one color. <a href="https://www.damesalamode.com/">Taylor's </a> blue dress lightened considerably and the contrast with the black trim is even more pronounced than in reality. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/miss.philomena/">Adrienne's</a> dress has lost definition in the check and appears more like a stripe. <br />
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My dress, <a href="https://sewloud.wordpress.com/">Robin's</a> wrapper, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/alicewesson/">Alice's</a> dress, and <a href="http://mandierw.blogspot.com/">Amanda's</a> dresses look more like what you'd expect in black and white photography with the contrast in colors remaining consistent with reality. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38532769996/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="2017g7"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4574/38532769996_644e935f6a.jpg" width="500" height="359" alt="2017g7"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589971521/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="FB_IMG_1511277798759"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4556/38589971521_737eb9b379.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="FB_IMG_1511277798759"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> </center><br />
<center>In our second group shot, I think the most striking change is the lightening of blues--and Leia's plaid looking like a stripe. </center><br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589956801/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="2017g2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4569/38589956801_cca778ecc1.jpg" width="430" height="500" alt="2017g2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38532782186/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="23847855_10101636152010189_959287820_o"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4580/38532782186_9971924b2d.jpg" width="448" height="500" alt="23847855_10101636152010189_959287820_o"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
For this dress, I copied a <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36186295541/in/album-72157687063796525/">period photograph</a> and tried to get the details as close as possible to the original. Though it's impossible to know, I'm glad that the colors I chose had similar contrast to the original. The ribbon on my dress is strips of white and black shot taffeta with fringed edges, which reads as grey. The center is a bit darker than the original, though the darkness of the soft edges is similar. The eyelets in my collar stand out a little more in the tintype. Please note, I took my rings off in between the pictures--they didn't disappear! <br />
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This pose is inspired by <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092902612672/">an original photograph.</a> Though portraits are the most common, many photographs also showed people doing activities--or at least pretending to!<br />
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Even though I brought my paletot, I didn't expect to take a tintype with it. Saturday though, it was pouring rain, so wearing it with my silk dress was a necessity. I couldn't resist finding out what the soutache trim would look like, and I wasn't disappointed. Though the purple and black contrast well, it's even more defined in the tintype. <br />
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Many photographs featured knitting, and since I not just love period knitting, but have a knitted bag in progress, I decided that I needed to recreate such a scene. <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092902497484/">This photograph</a> was my main inspiration, though I decided to pose with more knitting instead of a book. I've included two miser's purses, princess royal scarf, Robin's pineapple, and Adrienne's pence jug. <br />
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The white brooch on my chest isn't actually white--it's a miniature of President Obama that I made for a reenactment just before the 2008 election. It has a glass covering, which reflected the light so you couldn't see the picture--his official senate picture. I do wish it had shown up! <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/26813475329/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="23847814_10101636152065079_26515139_o"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4532/26813475329_76c888ba62.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="23847814_10101636152065079_26515139_o"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38532784996/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="38478070086_ab54c9d418_o"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4557/38532784996_27bf97cddd.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="38478070086_ab54c9d418_o"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
<center>Looking through the camera was fascinating! In addition to the photograph being flipped, the image is upside down. </center><br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38532783446/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="24662058708_f5f9fdf467_o"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4565/38532783446_cbb1355a4c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="24662058708_f5f9fdf467_o"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589971081/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="38502180652_e1cc325a44_o"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4556/38589971081_ba97a00f0c.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="38502180652_e1cc325a44_o"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The camera is positioned a good distance away. All of our pictures with our phones were taken much closer, yet had similar or wider angles. The exposure time was 15 seconds, half of the 30 seconds of our previous session in 2015. Though this wasn't a very long time to sit, having the head clamp was very useful. Breathing and blinking are fine during the process. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589972731/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="IMG_20171117_125127"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4576/38589972731_0073348d93.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20171117_125127"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589974061/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="IMG_20171117_125149"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4570/38589974061_b159154363.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20171117_125149"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
<center>Setting up the yarn winding shot--getting in good distance of the camera, and head support hidden behind me.</center> <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589976021/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="IMG_20171118_114138_1"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4578/38589976021_a9d62dacf6.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20171118_114138_1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589977971/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="IMG_20171118_114414"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4529/38589977971_cf39cedcce.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20171118_114414"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
Setting up the table of knitting--trying to make everything look as natural and distinct as possible. I left off the talma wrap and mariposa hood that I also brought on the trip. And once again, having the head clamp positioned. It's really quite comfortable--your neck just rests on it. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/38589955881/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="2017g1"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4573/38589955881_a203850046.jpg" width="430" height="500" alt="2017g1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/24717492948/in/album-72157662910915738/" title="2017g6"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4562/24717492948_34af22473b.jpg" width="421" height="500" alt="2017g6"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
<center>Two of the tintypes in cases--I think they really add to the authentic look!</center><br />
If you ever have the chance to have a tintype made, do it! It's really an amazing experience and helps to imagine what people in the past experienced. The picture emerging is fascinating to us--just think what it would've been like 150 years ago! And I couldn't recommend the Victorian Photography Studio more. They were professional, friendly, took beautiful photographs, and even had delicious cinnamon rolls. What more could you ask for! <br />
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And speaking of the photographs emerging, below are videos of the developing process. They start as negatives, and then all is revealed! <br />
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<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/244131471" width="640" height="1138" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/244131471">VID_20171117_122020</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1708865">Katherine</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br />
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/244131845" width="640" height="1138" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/244131845">VID_20171117_130032</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1708865">Katherine</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br />
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/244132134" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/244132134">VID_20171118_112635</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1708865">Katherine</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br />
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/244132453" width="640" height="1138" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/244132453">VID_20171118_114955</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1708865">Katherine</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br />
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/244132859" width="640" height="1138" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/244132859">VID_20171118_120121</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1708865">Katherine</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br />
<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/244133321" width="640" height="1138" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/244133321">VID_20171118_215427</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1708865">Katherine</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br />
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Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-53780558999131283312017-08-19T18:22:00.001-07:002017-08-19T19:55:06.429-07:00A Regency Beaded Evening Dress, c1805<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/35741541773/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="coco201743"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/35741541773_e4224f0496.jpg" width="335" height="500" alt="coco201743"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
After making a <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2016/08/a-regency-beaded-dress.html">beaded Regency day dress last year</a>, I knew I wanted another one. I had wanted one like <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092902344274/">this</a> or <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092901086148/">this</a> for quite some time. When we had our study day at the Museum of Fashion in Bath, we were able to see <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092905650007/">this dress in person and close up</a>, so I knew that I'd be making a version of it sooner rather than later. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36134190392/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="DSC_3052"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/36134190392_3f024a6a1c.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_3052"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/35715891894/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="DSC_3078"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/35715891894_8966ff3dec.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_3078"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
My dress is made of <a href="http://shop.farmhousefabrics.com/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details_side.asp?Shopper_id=254819202020254&Store_id=198&page_id=23&Item_ID=25689&Name=Silky-Swiss-Voile---White,-45-quot;-Wide-">silky Swiss voile from Farmhouse Fabrics</a>, beaded with <a href="http://www.firemountaingems.com/itemdetails/h20a1047sb">number 8 Delica opaque luster seed beads from Fire Mountain Gems,</a> and the bodice is lined with lightweight linen from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com">Burnley and Trowbridge.</a> My earrings are <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/492201431/vintage-glass-moonstone-earrings?ga_search_query=moonstone&ref=shop_items_search_6">moonstone earrings from Dames a la Mode.</a><br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/35741542363/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="coco2017122"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4342/35741542363_4247e3094c.jpg" width="335" height="500" alt="coco2017122"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/35715892464/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="coco2017113"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/35715892464_e741a2631e.jpg" width="335" height="500" alt="coco2017113"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
I wanted to make a fixed turban for the dress, but my attempts didn't work out. I think the fabric I was using was the wrong weight--it would look good wrapped on my head, then when I took it off, deflate. So instead, I used a triangular fichu, tied that on my head, and wrapped a long hemmed piece of voile around that and pinned it into place. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/35715892194/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="coco2017112"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4362/35715892194_bf466dd2c7.jpg" width="335" height="500" alt="coco2017112"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
I used about 26,000 beads on the dress. They're sewn on with a back stitch reaching from bead to bead. The beads at the back waist on the bodice are reinforced. I sewed them again after the dress was done so they'd have a little protection from the waist tie.<br />
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I used graph paper to create a grid and then drew the dots on the dress with a mechanical pencil. <br />
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The beads are quite large, based on the original. Mine are actually a little smaller than the original dress's beads, if my memory is correct. The dress weighs nearly 2 and a half pounds. I needed to use a few more pins than usual because of the weight of the dress, and before I wear it again, I'm going to add more loops for the waist ties. The original dress didn't have ties or loops. It may have just been pinned originally, or it may have been altered. <br />
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The beads were comfortable to wear. I was a little worried about how the underarms would feel rubbing against the bodice, but I didn't even notice them. Sitting down was slightly odd--it felt like I was sitting on ball bearings and that I might slide off the chair, even though there really was no danger of that. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/35741540443/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="coco2017117"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/35741540443_9e4375aae8.jpg" width="500" height="335" alt="coco2017117"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
I was very curious about how the dress was going to drape. I thought that the train might just flop to the ground. I was very pleased that it draped nicely. I'm wearing it over my normal just above the ankle length strapped petticoat. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36200614030/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="2017-08-15_04-44-47"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4351/36200614030_2b40367572.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="2017-08-15_04-44-47"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
I used a ten inch hoop on the bodice, and a larger one for the skirt. Thankfully, the beads didn't get in the way of hooping the dress. I sewed most of the beads on the skirt using a curved needle (not shown here--of course my best hooped picture has a straight needle!), which meant I didn't need to guide the needle under the hoop and could have a handful of beads in my left hand. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/36200548780/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="2017-08-15_04-40-50"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4335/36200548780_cd0400ec30.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="2017-08-15_04-40-50"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/35761421754/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="2017-08-15_04-39-45"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/35761421754_3779e15bb4.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="2017-08-15_04-39-45"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
After working on the dress off an on for about six months (more off than on--I wish I had paid more attention to time!) I washed it carefully in the sink and laid it flat to dry. To iron it, I put it beads down on top of a fluffy towel. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/35741540843/in/album-72157682780037106/" title="coco2017116"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4403/35741540843_50bbf68cc1.jpg" width="335" height="500" alt="coco2017116"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
And I adore the way the light hits the dress in this picture. This picture, and the close ups above are by my friend, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/journeyofaphotog/">Llyra Lee</a>, who's becoming a better photographer every day!<br />
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<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/229497909" width="640" height="1138" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe><br />
<p><a href="https://vimeo.com/229497909">A beaded Regency evening dress, inspired by one in the Fashion Museum in Bath</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1708865">Katherine</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br />
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And the dress in motion! Please excuse the Votes for Women temporary tattoo sticking out of the back. It's leftover from my dress from the previous day. <br />
Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-28885705622164582542017-05-20T19:58:00.000-07:002017-05-20T19:58:32.484-07:00A Rather Loud Plaid Wool 1860s Dress<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34663861945/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="DSC_1197"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4157/34663861945_084a745a1b.jpg" width="301" height="500" alt="DSC_1197"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
One of my favorite things about the mid nineteenth century is the delightfully loud color combinations. Lime green and orange plaid? Of course! <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34533642681/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="DSC_1141"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4174/34533642681_c93995d324.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="DSC_1141"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34663860485/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="DSC_1189"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4176/34663860485_2223368b7d.jpg" width="309" height="500" alt="DSC_1189"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
Construction is mostly detailed in <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2017/05/an-1860s-dress-incomplete-tutorial.html">this post.</a> The dress is made of <a href="http://www.thescottishweaver.com/wool-tartan-plaids/lightweight-wool/maclay-modern-lightweight.html#.WSDojfUrLrd">a lightweight wool MacLay modern tartan.</a> Loud, non tartan, plaids are difficult to find! Most I was coming across were subdued and would make nice modern business suits. Not quite what I wanted. The lime green plaid silk tafetta is from <a href="http://www.puresilks.us">Pure Silks.</a> It's lined with brown polished cotton from <a href="http://www.woodedhamlet.com">Needle and Thread.</a> I'm wearing it over my 1863 corset, a petticoat, and the <a href="http://www.lafnmoon.com">Laughing Moon elliptical hoop.</a><br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/33821647444/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="DSC_1161"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4178/33821647444_d4de5c0b27.jpg" width="309" height="500" alt="DSC_1161"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The skirt is transitional in shape, leading to what would eventually become the bustle. It's slightly gored, and then knife pleated with a large box pleat in front and the other pleats leading to an inverted box pleat at the center back. The bottom of the skirt is only a few inches bigger than the top. You can see this in the shape of the plaid stripe at the bottom of the skirt seam.<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34663861245/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="DSC_1194"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4194/34663861245_5d3e2da9d9.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_1194"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The wool for the sleeves is cut on the bias while the lining remains on the straight of grain. I initially cut the sleeves on the straight as well, thinking that I wanted a vertical line on them. <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.dreamwidth.org/1716194.html">Thankfully I had enough fabric to recut the sleeves, as the originals made the bodice look like a 1990s flannel shirt.</a> Not the look I went for in the 90s, and definitely not the look I was going for here!<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34663862765/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="DSC_1201"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4194/34663862765_ed6a8c2414.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_1201"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The bodice trim is based on <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092900832133/">this CDV.</a> The sleeves are inspired by <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092902566727/">this extant dress</a> and <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092902527927/">this CDV.</a> Both show sleeves open down the back connected with straps. Though neither shows pleated trim, they both have trim so I feel it's a logical leap. The undersleeves are tubes of cotton with a cuff that are basted into the sleeves and then pulled through the straps into puffs. I'm holding my <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Koshkacat/ladys-purse">miser's purse from an 1863 Godey's pattern.</a><br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34623297526/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="gettysburg tintype4"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4174/34623297526_4762d99a3a.jpg" width="376" height="500" alt="gettysburg tintype4"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
During Remembrance Day, I had a tintype made in the dress at the <a href="http://www.victorianphotostudio.com/">Victorian Photography Studio</a> in Gettysburg. I love the color shift in the dress--it's an excellent reminder that their world wasn't black and white!<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34663864825/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="IMG_20151212_123802349"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4158/34663864825_0cc651d963.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="IMG_20151212_123802349"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
I wore the dress again to Dickens Faire in San Francisco. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34623297176/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="IMG_20151212_142330"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4165/34623297176_bd51db06c6.jpg" width="400" height="500" alt="IMG_20151212_142330"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34623296416/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="sillhouette 1"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4169/34623296416_98c7816db0.jpg" width="361" height="500" alt="sillhouette 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
At Dickens Faire, I had a silhouette made my <a href="https://www.facebook.com/SilhouettesByJordan/">Silhouettes by Jordan.</a> Not much a view of the dress, but still, wonderful to have another opportunity for a period image!<br />
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Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-88497565891127819562017-05-19T17:15:00.000-07:002017-05-19T17:15:18.180-07:00A Blue Wool 1860s Dress<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34622835786/in/album-72157680759262963/" title="DSC_1094"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4169/34622835786_b825d45bff.jpg" width="372" height="500" alt="DSC_1094"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
One of the first books I bought after starting costuming was <i>From Queen to Empress</i> from the Met Museum about fashions during Queen Victoria's reign. I fell in love with this <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/91019?img=2">blue moire dress.</a> Many years later when planning my Gettysburg wardrobe, I realized the blue wool from <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2014/05/the-completed-cotehardie.html">my cotehardie</a> would be perfect for a version of it. I had a few yards leftover and thankfully <a href="http://www.wmboothdraper.com">William Booth Draper</a> had just enough left in stock.<br />
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Construction is mostly detailed in <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2017/05/an-1860s-dress-incomplete-tutorial.html">this post.</a>(My plaid dress is the model for most of the post, but construction is the same.) The dress is lined with polished cotton from <a href="http://www.woodedhamlet.com">Needle and Thread.</a> I'm wearing it over their 95" hoop. My corset is the <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.com/red_corset.html">1863 Mina Sebille corset</a> which I've had for ages. I like this style so much that I made another version of it in a slightly more practical white. <br />
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The skirt is looped up using sets of rings at about knee length and about the top of the facing. If you follow the link the the dress I copied, one of the pictures shows this arrangement. My apologies for not having pictures of it done on my dress. The rings are then tied together to loop up the skirt. I'm wearing it over the black silk skirt of another 1860s dress. <br />
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The dress is trimmed with black lace backed with white silk ribbon from <a href="http://www.mjtrim.com">MJ Trim.</a> Each section of trim is finished with black glass teardrop beads I bought in the Los Angeles Garment District ages ago. It closes with hooks and thread eyes and is decorated with buttons covered in silk. <br />
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Wearing this to Gettysburg in November gave a wonderful opportunity for outerwear--and knitting. Although, it was unseasonably warm! I'm wearing it with the <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Koshkacat/knitted-talma">1859 talma wrap</a>, <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Koshkacat/knitted-mariposa-hood"> 1860s mariposa hood</a>, and <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Koshkacat/princess-royals-scarf-6">a Princess Royal scarf.</a> Unfortunately I didn't notice that the collar was flipped up in these pictures until I got home!<br />
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And two more views of the talma. It really was quite a bit of knitting! Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-30038151604826547612017-05-19T17:14:00.000-07:002017-05-20T19:59:59.424-07:00An 1860s Dress--An Incomplete TutorialI started making my dresses for Remembrance Day 2015 with very good intentions--to photograph every step of the way and write a tutorial. I did fall down on that partway though--the plaid dress changed to the blue dress and then there are a few skirt pictures. I seem to have forgotten about sleeves and attaching the skirt. Still though, I thought I'd present what information I have, and since I'm planning on going to Gettysburg again this year, do a more thorough job on my new dresses. But for now, some 1860s construction information!<br />
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In the 1860s, bodices were commonly made of three pieces--two fronts, and a back with false seams. To create the false seams, cut your fashion fabric slightly larger than your lining. It's easy to adapt a three piece back into a one piece back, just lay your pattern pieces together as if they were one. I did that for years before finally cutting a new one piece back pattern. <br />
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Pin the fashion fabric to the lining at the shoulders and down the center back.<br />
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And since this is going to be quite long, even as an incomplete tutorial, please click to continue reading!<br />
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Put a tuck in the fashion fabric. Look at originals for an idea of how this should look. The space at the center back waist tended to be very narrow. <br />
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Repeat the tuck on the other side. A bendable ruler really helps to get them to match. As does plaid or stripes! An advantage to using a one piece back with a tuck is a matched pattern. As long as your back is centered, your design will match on either side. <br />
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Here's what the back looks like at this point. The tucks are then sewn down. A backstitch works nicely.<br />
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And the completed back piece. As you can see, you don't need to worry about the fashion fabric matching the lining exactly after the tuck. It's easy to trim, if needed!<br />
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In many ways, 1860s sewing is similar to modern sewing. Sew the fronts to the back, right sides together. <br />
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The fronts are flatlined, lining and fashion fabric. Cut each and treat them as one. You can baste them together if you wish, but I find that's quite a bit of extra work that's not really necessary. Basting the layers together isn't something I've seen done on original clothing (though as usual, I haven't seen everything!), and it's easy to pin and smooth as you go. Not basting also allows you to adjust for differences with fabrics and stretch and turn of cloth (basically how an inner curve and outer curve are slightly different in size) as you sew. <br />
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Now is one of the most important parts for a good fit--fitting the darts. Sadly, this is one of the parts I skipped pictures of! Try the bodice on, inside out, over your corset. Pin it closed at center front with the excess fabric sticking out like a seam allowance (I really wish I had taken pictures...)<br />
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Make sure you know where your waist sits with your hoop and petticoat. The bodice should end slightly above this line. <br />
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Starting with whatever side is easier--I'm right handed so it's easier to do the left first--pinch darts into place. Pull your fabric so that the back of the bodice sits tightly yet comfortably on your back, and pinch about half of that excess into a dart, using vertical pins to mark it, then pinch the rest into a dart next to it. Don't make the darts vertical. They can angle away from each other, or both angle towards the back, but straight up and down darts don't add to the illusion of your waist being smaller than it is. They shouldn't be completely parallel. They should be closer together at the waist than at the bust. Repeat on the other side, or, as I often do, take the bodice off and pinch matching darts into the other side. Try the bodice on right side out, and adjust as needed. <br />
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Sew the darts along the pinned line, starting at the waist and trailing off the fabric at the bust points. <br />
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Darts can be made in your muslin or pattern of course, but please, only use those as a starting point. Every fabric is different, and the darts need to be slightly different sizes. The darts on my dresses used in this tutorial, though they were made within weeks of each other, are different sizes due to the weights of the fabrics. <br />
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And here's the blue dress--I neglected to take pictures of this step on the plaid!<br />
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Finish the center front. If you have enough overlap, just fold the fronts back iron. It's easy to do it this way since in the 1860s dress fronts were cut on the straight of grain. This is how the plaid dress was done. If not, sew straight strips down the center front and press to the inside. You can either whip stitch the center fronts down now, or after you finish the neckline. <br />
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Necklines in the 1860s were piped. I find this so much easier to do by hand, and I have a sneaking suspicion that piping died out because machine sewing became more common. <br />
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Piping was generally done with very narrow cords. I have a huge roll of tiny crochet cotton that I use for this. To start, cut your bias strips. Fold an end under, and tuck the cord under that end. It should be about 3/4 the way to the edge. Then fold the edge over, with the cord in the fold. The edges should be offset. This is because the piping acts as binding. <br />
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Line up the piping so that the short folded edge is at the edge of your neckline, and the long folded edge sticks out past it. It should start at the center front edge of the bodice. (Note that the creased line is the center front edge--I hadn't basted it down yet.)<br />
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Sew to the other center front edge and tuck the end under. A running stitch works fine. Don't bother pinning it. You can position it as you sew, stretching it to make it go smoothly around the curves. Part of the beauty of hand sewing is not needing to pin. <br />
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As you sew, use your needle to push the cord as deep into the fold as you can, and sew along the little ridge the cord creates. <br />
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Here's the piping from the right and wrong sides of the bodice. You can see how just one layer extends past the neckline edge.<br />
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Press the neckline seam allowance and piping down.<br />
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Tuck the piping seam allowance under. Fold the center front opening over the piping. You don't need to turn the piping seam allowance under underneath the center front, which reduces bulk at the neckline. <br />
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Armscyes were also piped. It's very similar to neckline piping, but your bias strip should be double your seam allowance and folded down the center. Start the piping in a good place, not too visible and not meeting another seam. Start sewing about 1/s2 inch from the fold. When you've sewn all around, tuck the end of the piping into the starting fold that you've left loose, and sew that part. Use this sewing line as a mark for setting your sleeve.<br />
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To finish the waist, you can use piping the same way you piped the neckline. The extensions seen here are so you can set a skirt with a side front opening to a center front opening bodice. <br />
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And a close up of the extensions. They're just folded pieces of lining fabric that are whip stitched to the inside waist. When putting the dress on, close the skirt first and then the bodice over the skirt. <br />
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As mentioned, unfortunately I didn't take pictures of attaching the skirt. Skirts in the 1860s were made with a folded top edge and then pleated or cartridge pleated and whip stitched to the bodice. With this method, it's easy to make the transition from the bodice edge to the waistband extension.<br />
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You can also finish the waist with a waistband. This technique is copied from an original white sheer bodice that I own. <br />
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Cut a straight of grain waistband in both your fashion fabric and lining. Sandwich the bottom of the bodice between these two waistbands and sew.<br />
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Then press the waistbands down. It's not pictured here, but the next step is to fold the seam allowance of the waistbands in towards each other for a finished edge on each side. You don't need to sew this shut. Whipping the skirt to the bottom edge of the waistband takes care of that. <br />
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The waistband extends past the bodice for a side front closure on the skirt. <br />
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The skirt for the blue dress is made of straight panels. The skirt for the plaid dress is made of slightly gored panels, but the construction is the same. <br />
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First, the pocket. Sew the pocket, leaving the first and last half inch or sewn unsewn for the seam allowance. Making sure to keep the other side out of the way, sew one edge of the pocket opening to the skirt. You want the pocket seam allowance on the outside of the pocket. Then sew the second side to the other side of the skirt. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/33895881323/in/album-72157680764747864/" title="DSC_1006"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4189/33895881323_110617552f.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_1006"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/33895881763/in/album-72157680764747864/" title="DSC_1007"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4170/33895881763_e4b2f43921.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_1007"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
Sew the skirt seams after you sew the pocket. Use a slightly larger seam allowance than you did on the pocket and sew slightly past the seamline of the pocket. When you turn the skirt right side out, the pocket will sit neatly in the seam.<br />
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Sew the remaining skirt seams, leaving one open for a placket.<br />
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Next, sew the hem facing. The hem facing is a tube of fabric that's the same circumference as the hem of your skirt. Sew it right sides together with the skirt. <br />
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Press it up, and sew it into place. The top edge is fine left raw. I sewed it with a hand running stitch--it barely shows on the right side. <br />
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Measure the skirt. Use the center front, center back, and side waist to hem measurements. Mark these places.<br />
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Now, fold the top edge of the skirt down. Pleat or cartridge pleat and sew to your bodice. The skirt hinges of the waistband, which in addition to making a no bulk waistband, adds a nice spring to help with the fashionable look.<br />
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And that's where I stopped taking pictures. I'll be sure to cover the steps I missed when I make my next 1860s dress! But for now, here are the completed dresses. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34533642681/in/album-72157681039942562/" title="DSC_1141"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4174/34533642681_c93995d324.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="DSC_1141"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34622833486/in/album-72157680759262963/" title="DSC_1059"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4181/34622833486_a387bdb5ba.jpg" width="404" height="500" alt="DSC_1059"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The blue dress in this post can be seen <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2017/05/a-blue-wool-1860s-dress.html">here.</a><br />
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The plaid dress is <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2017/05/a-rather-loud-plaid-wool-1860s-dress.html">here.</a><br />
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Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-28860240533754663282017-05-13T18:47:00.001-07:002017-05-14T19:34:28.420-07:00An 1860s Wool Gauze Ball Gown<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/33796345424/in/dateposted-public/" title="DSC_0103"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4183/33796345424_69d684b1aa.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_0103"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
I hadn't even planned on making a new ball gown for Gettysburg Remembrance Day in 2015. I have several 1850s and 1860s ball gowns that I love. However, while looking for wool plaid, I came across wool gauze at <a href="http://www.farmhousefabrics.com">Farmhouse Fabrics,</a> and my plans immediately changed. Wool gauze is one of those fabrics that has mostly disappeared to time, and there was no way I could pass it up!<br />
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I've worn this dress three times--to the Gettysburg ball, <a href="http://www.victoriandance.org">the Victorian Grand Ball</a> in Pasadena, and to <a href="http://www.costumecollege.net">Costume College 2016.</a> <br />
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Unfortunately, the only construction picture I have is the finished bodice point. I loathe making points, so it was an accomplishment! I had hit that time before an event where everything just needs to get done. It follows basic mid-century techniques though. It's flatlined with polished cotton from <a href="http://www.woodedhamlet.com">Needle and Thread</a> and the edges are finished with narrow piping. The skirt is set with cartridge pleats on a straight waistband and basted to the bodice. It's trimmed with 4 inch silk rayon vintage ribbon from eBay, narrow silk ribbon from Farmhouse Fabrics, and self pleated trim. The bertha is a separate piece, and made of one wide piece of wool gauze pleated to fit. It closes over the left shoulder. The bodice laces up the back with spiral lacing, based on <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092902978538/">this bodice that belonged to the Empress Eugenie</a>. The flower on the bodice is from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/APinkSwan">A Pink Swan on Etsy.</a> My necklace, bracelets, earrings, and paper flowers in my hair are from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/damesalamode">Dames a la Mode.</a><br />
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I do have some rather period correct damage to the dress. You'll notice that in this picture, the ribbon streamers are the same length, while the one on my right is a little longer in the first picture. I was flung during the ball in Gettysburg (where this picture was taken) and one ribbon ripped. It was thankfully right up top, so the repair was easy to hide!<br />
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I always find proportions to be one of the most important things in costuming. 1860s ball gown necklines typically sit on the point of the shoulder and angle slightly down to the center front. Because I'm so small, I find that to get the overall period looking line, I need to make the neckline a little lower. If I don't, the bodice sits too high on my chest, and doesn't give the correct look. <br />
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The pleating on the sleeves is made of unhemmed straight strips of fabric. I wanted to keep the lightness. The wool is very sheer, and you can see the shadow of the tight sleeve, which is trimmed the same way, under the loose sleeve. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/33796350464/in/album-72157680705498613/" title="DSC_0124"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4158/33796350464_fbe584651b.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_0124"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34477116802/in/album-72157680705498613/" title="DSC_0128"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4182/34477116802_7e82e97343.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="DSC_0128"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The Masonic Temple in Pasadena is a lovely backdrop for period gowns! <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/34510595541/in/album-72157680705498613/" title="2017-05-13_06-01-28"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4188/34510595541_22f2811992.jpg" width="500" height="337" alt="2017-05-13_06-01-28"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
My not period correct garters are a quote by Elizabeth Cady Stanton--The history of the past is but one long struggle upward to equality--something that sounds so much less true than when I made them. <br />
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I wore a different hairpiece at Costume College. During the day I wore my Regency version of Princess Leia's Bespin dress, and that hairpiece worked remarkably well for the 1860s! <br />
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<center><iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/217330952" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="https://vimeo.com/217330952">DSC_0109</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1708865">Katherine</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p></center><br />
The fabric on the dress is incredibly light and airy. It's so much fun to dance in :)Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-49273764249000847222016-08-08T15:14:00.002-07:002016-08-09T12:51:44.864-07:00A Beaded Robe de Style<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778996191/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Green Robe de Style"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8886/28778996191_6d4a956d51.jpg" width="279" height="500" alt="Green Robe de Style"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778997161/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Green Robe de Style"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8634/28778997161_9c02f802b1.jpg" width="320" height="500" alt="Green Robe de Style"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
I almost didn't make a new dress for the gala at Costume College this year. I had a very busy year costuming wise and thought that I wouldn't have time. But things went a little more quickly than I expected, and I realized I was going to end up with a week with no costuming plans right before Costume College. I had fallen in love with <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092905719144/">this robe de style</a> ages before, when it was an eBay auction, and just as I was considering making it, more pictures came up on Pinterest. I really wanted to make it in green, and one day, after daily checking <a href="http://www.renaissancefabrics.net">Renaissance Fabrics</a> all of a sudden had green in stock. I had to make it then! <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28240188033/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Green Robe de Style"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8622/28240188033_0e2e46d556.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Green Robe de Style"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28779002881/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Green Robe de Style"><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8232/28779002881_ff47e7ee8d.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Green Robe de Style"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
I made a few design changes from the original. After 2 hours of working on them, I decided I liked the dress better without sleeve caps. I think the silk net that I had was too lightweight to work correctly. I also left out the inserts of net at center front and back. I left off a beaded element at the center back because I liked the neckline more without it. I also decided against turning up the front hem to show the lining. <br />
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I'm wearing the dress over my <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2014/06/a-1920s-envelope-chemise-tutorial.html">envelope chemise</a> and <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2014/05/a-1920s-hoop-skirt.html">1920s hoop.</a> I didn't take pictures making it, but it's essentially the same as my <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2012/09/my-first-lanvin-robe-de-style-details.html">first robe de style.</a> I added <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2014/06/lingerie-gaurds-tiny-tutorial.html"> guards so the straps wouldn't slip</a>. Information about the beading can be found <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2016/08/transferring-design-and-beading-bow.html">here.</a><br />
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These two pictures and the one with the gorgeous light below are by my friend <a href="https://www.instagram.com/journeyofaphotog/">Llyra Lee</a> who's doing wonderful things with photography lately! <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28240189183/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Green Robe de Style"><img src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8888/28240189183_091a528749.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Green Robe de Style"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28237672944/in/dateposted-public/" title="Green Robe de Style"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8781/28237672944_d7c5cae000.jpg" width="360" height="500" alt="Green Robe de Style"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
The dress is trimmed with 2mm, 5mm, and 6 mm rhinestones from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/225820826/6mm-sew-on-rhinestones-6mm-glass-buttons">Pretty Things Supplies</a>, the steel beads are from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/287016183/rare-antique-steel-cut-beads-made-in">Hanson Stone Vintage</a>, the skirt lining is cream silk charmeuse from <a href="http://www.dharmatrading.com">Dharma Trading</a>, and the green taffeta is from <a href="http://www.renaissancefabrics.net">Renaissance Fabrics.</a> It's lined in lightweight cotton voile. My comb is from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/262487379/new-price-art-deco-spanish-hair-comb">Pansy Belle Attic.</a> My earrings are from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/240082020/emerald-earrings-green-crystal-earrings?ref=hp_rv">Dames a la Mode.</a> My shoes are <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Minishion-Pleather-Glitter-Ballroom-T-Strap/dp/B00IZGFS1C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1470683155&sr=8-3&keywords=silver+t+strap+shoes">t-strap ballroom shoes by Minitoo that I found on Amazon.</a><br />
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I waved my hair using a vintage Subpedo iron in front, and a vintage triple barrel iron in back. Both needed to be heated in a stove meant for non electric irons. It was a little intimidating, but I'm very happy with the results--especially for being rather new at using it! <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28237676234/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Green Robe de Style"><img src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8811/28237676234_4f7a368491.jpg" width="357" height="500" alt="Green Robe de Style"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script></center><br />
One of my favorite parts of the evening was seeing Stephanie's interpretation of the same dress. I love what we approached the same and differently! Though you can't tell in the picture, her bow was made of black beads that sparkled beautifully. Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-61163914882961248862016-08-08T14:20:00.000-07:002016-08-08T14:20:17.223-07:00Transferring a Design and Beading a Bow--A Tiny Tutorial<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28237674694/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Green Robe de Style"><img alt="Green Robe de Style" height="500" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8047/28237674694_d5ca062918.jpg" width="276" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
The most striking feature of <a href="">the dress I copied for the 2016 Costume College Gala</a> is <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/pin/85498092905719147/">a rhinestone bow on the front neckline.</a> It's what drew me to the dress when I first saw it, and it was one of those dresses always in the back of my mind.<br />
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My green silk taffeta is from <a href="http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/">Renaissance Fabrics</a>, my steel cut beads are from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/287016183/rare-antique-steel-cut-beads-made-in">Hanson Stone Vintage</a>, and my rhinestones are from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/225820826/6mm-sew-on-rhinestones-6mm-glass-buttons">Pretty Things Supplies</a> <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28240497863/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="IMG_20160723_160140394a"><img alt="IMG_20160723_160140394a" height="292" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8502/28240497863_4ee07458b6.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
I knew when I was making this dress that I wanted to add the beading to the mostly finished dress. I finished the bodice, except for sewing the neckline facing down. This way I was able to sew the neckline beads on and then whip the facing into place. I left off the skirt as well, because I didn't want it in the way. You can see the half finished facing in the above picture. The rhinestones are 5mm surrounded by 2mm. <br />
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Because my fabric is so dark--green shot with black--my previous technique <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2014/06/transferring-embroidery-to-somewhat.html">of a cell phone flashlight and bowl,</a> wasn't going to work. My fabric was also too dark for the pencil markings to show up. I have a chalk pencil somewhere, but I didn't really want to rub that off with the beading anyway. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778982721/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Beaded Bow"><img alt="Beaded Bow" height="294" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8643/28778982721_5ec910f4ab.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
To start, I traced my design onto tracing paper. It looks opaque in the picture, but is actually sheer. Tissue paper would work as well. I then pinned the design into place.<br />
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To get the design itself, I enlarged the picture of the dress and traced it--very easy!<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778984411/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Beaded Bow"><img alt="Beaded Bow" height="281" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8851/28778984411_7af4f68ce5.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
I then sewed along the lines using white thread and big basting stitches. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778984761/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Beaded Bow"><img alt="Beaded Bow" height="236" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8715/28778984761_e506a2f748.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center>When I tore the paper off, very carefully and with the help of a seam ripper, I had a perfect guide for the beads!<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778987561/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Beaded Bow"><img alt="Beaded Bow" height="281" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7587/28778987561_aca888bed1.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
I sewed the beads right next to the guiding stitches--this made them easier to pull out once the beading was done. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778991121/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Beaded Bow"><img alt="Beaded Bow" height="281" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7594/28778991121_4d8bf6346d.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
The completed outline!<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778991571/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Beaded Bow"><img alt="Beaded Bow" height="236" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8770/28778991571_a6d796b9e0.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
I then filled the bow with rhinestones. I used a 6mm in the center and 5mm and 2mm in the rest. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778992311/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Beaded Bow"><img alt="Beaded Bow" height="500" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8166/28778992311_2d693d3bfb.jpg" width="281" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
For the tails of the bow, I basted a line, sewed 6mm rhinestones along it, and then sewed the steel beads along the edge.<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778995011/in/album-72157669142624604/" title="Beaded Bow"><img alt="Beaded Bow" height="500" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8708/28778995011_444630f60a.jpg" width="281" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
One of the tails ends past the skirt. I hemmed a piece of fabric in the shape I wanted, added the rhinestones, and sewed it to the dress. I sewed the steel beads after this so they'd cover the join between the extension and the dress.<br />
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And that's it! For the beading, at least :)Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7326429105666772831.post-37855001635553494402016-08-06T15:24:00.000-07:002016-08-06T15:28:41.615-07:00A Regency Beaded Dress<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28705480952/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="640" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8425/28705480952_eb5dd2084f_z.jpg" width="369" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
If you want a big, over the top, detailed, insane dress, it's going to take time. A lot of time. And commitment. And deciding just what else can be put aside. When I first saw <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/107967?img=0">this Regency beaded dress in the Met</a> on <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.livejournal.com/1450342.html">April 8th, 2013</a>, I knew I had to have it. I also knew that when I started it, it would take over my entire costuming life. And three years later--except for one <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Koshkacat/biscottes-folly">brief break to finish a kitty sock,</a> it did just that! I started the dress on February 4th, 2016 and finished it on May 20th. It went out of town with me twice, to work just in case I had ten extra minutes at lunch, and most days I worked on it for four to five hours. Occasionally more, and sometimes less, but to say it took all of my time is somewhat of an understatement! I rearranged my entire costuming schedule around this dress, and thankfully enjoyed every minute of it. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28193122664/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8624/28193122664_20edbb5f70.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28526206620/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="500" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8814/28526206620_d6fb867413.jpg" width="252" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
I'm wearing it over a linen chemise from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/">Burnley and Trowbridge's lightweight linen</a>, <a href="http://kleidungum1800.blogspot.com/2013/05/short-stays-studies-schnurleib-studien.html">the underbust version of Sabine's short stays</a>, and a bodiced petticoat in the first pictures--taken in Bath--and a strapped petticoat in the second pictures--taken at the Louisville Jane Austen Festival. <br />
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My bonnet is <a href="http://timelytresses.com/Regency_bonnet_pages/Ophelia/Ophelia.html">the Ophelia from Timely Tresses</a>. It's trimmed with ribbon from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/BulldogAndBaum">Bulldog and Baum</a> and flowers from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/APinkSwan">A Pink Swan.</a><br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28705483732/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="500" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8837/28705483732_b8e6024da9.jpg" width="236" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28705482232/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8175/28705482232_aa38c2cc9b.jpg" width="292" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28705483302/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="500" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8410/28705483302_05a96b6ded.jpg" width="314" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28705480372/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="500" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8713/28705480372_dfc52f0c35.jpg" width="333" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
The beading weighs quite a bit! The skirt is on the narrow end, around 80 inches, because I didn't want too many of the beads to get lost in the width. Walking in it is a little like walking in a hobble skirt because of the way the beads press against your legs. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778961056/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="213" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8681/28778961056_5b36b55905_n.jpg" width="320" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28778962466/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="213" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8180/28778962466_20abb03d69_n.jpg" width="320" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
Construction on this dress was very straightforward. It's fitted with darts in front and closes with drawstrings in back. It's made of sheer cotton from <a href="http://www.farmhousefabrics.com/">Farmhouse Fabrics</a> and the bodice is lined in cotton from <a href="http://www.dharmatrading.com/">Dharma Trading.</a> The beads are 15/0 rocailles from <a href="http://www.firemountaingems.com/">Fire Mountain Gems</a>. A lot of beads--while I didn't keep exact track, I did need about two and a half boxes of light green, two mossy green, two yellow, and two white in addition to partial boxes of other colors. There are 8,500 or so beads in a box. <br />
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I'm incredibly pleased with how this dress turned out, and I'm still a little stunned that I made it! Though I've worn in three times this year, in addition to wearing it in Bath and to the Jane Austen Festival in Louisville, I also wore it to Costume College, I'm hoping to have many chances to wear it in the future!<br />
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I don't have any actual construction pictures of the dress since it is so straightforward, but I did take many pictures while beading! You can see them below. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28526199460/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="281" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8765/28526199460_0428e20748.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
I was thankful that, if careful, I was able to put the beading directly into the hoop. You can also see a skirt seam in this picture. I decided that because there was so much beading that would be going over seams, I would make the skirt first, leave enough at the hem to support the hoop, and then do the beading. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28526203050/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="281" src="https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8890/28526203050_d4cde6f56c.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
One thing that made the dress easier--the beading directed the embroidery. I traced the design on with a mechanical pencil, and only needed a few outlines instead of the entire pattern. <br />
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Though there are tricks--such as going through the last bead in a row--to make beading straight, after being able to count how many beads were on each stitch in many places on the original, I decided to do it without worrying about it. It's much faster!<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28526201070/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="281" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8754/28526201070_27d4160d7c.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
For the flowers, I just drew a line to mark the center of the centers, and twelve lines radiating from it to sew the petals. The stems and round buds in between the petals were done without marks. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28779266116" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="469" src="https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8343/28779266116_fac36430d6.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
A detail of the neckline. I started by drawing the scalloped edge, beaded that, then the flowers, and then drew the tiny scallops above the flowers.<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28195403773/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="281" src="https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8836/28195403773_af320cc629.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
For the cuff, I drew the scalloped edge, buttonhole stitched, and used that as a guide. Ignore the pencil marks above it--I initially made the sleeve too short. <br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28705481502/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="281" src="https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7784/28705481502_02624ac383.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
To make things seem like they were progressing more quickly, I chose elements to bead. In this case, the center and the small stem that the large sprigs attached to--this way I was able to draw in the big sprigs.<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28705481152/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="281" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8696/28705481152_9f5ea349b2.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
So much beading!<br />
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<center><a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28195399913/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="180" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8833/28195399913_a7ece1cfc4_n.jpg" width="320" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> <a data-flickr-embed="false" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/76452380@N00/28195401743/in/album-72157666251499715/" title="Regency Beaded Dress"><img alt="Regency Beaded Dress" height="213" src="https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8749/28195401743_0689beb561_n.jpg" width="320" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></center><br />
And the completed bodice front!<br />
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Katherine Caron-Greighttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03023378555632762445noreply@blogger.com19